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Tweaking a pattern.


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#19 dpcoffin

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 05:05 AM

 

How do you mark where the band should be? It is a continuous grade, from shoulder to neck. Where do you determine where the shoulder stops and the neck starts?

 

Here's how I do it, AFTER the yoke etc is all laying flat and smooth:
Capto%202017-08-03_11-58-11_AM.png?dl=1

 

 

I think I don't want to add a dart, and rather it just falls down. This will be worn tucked in and not tucked in. 

 

I don't like darts either, so I'd start by letting out the sides from the waist down and see if I could get away with only doing that. The back's hanging up on your hips/butt, so it either needs to be contoured (darts/side-seam), shortened above and at the waist, or widened below the waist.



#20 dpcoffin

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 05:14 AM

 

Thanks, I hadn't even noticed that my bones do that. Now i wonder how much of that is because of me posing, versus my build. More time in front of the camera and mirror, I guess.

 I have similar shoulders in front and my drapes almost always have these sort of shapes at the front to yoke seams:
Capto%202017-08-03_12-10-18_PM.png?dl=1

 

Concave body shapes are hard to deal with in shirts, though, since there's nothing but the body inside providing any structure, and it's moving around all the time, often not staying just where the garment shaping wants it to be, so I always try to keep this sort of shaping to a minimum. 


Edited by dpcoffin, 04 August 2017 - 05:21 AM.


#21 Learner

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 05:59 AM

 

How do you mark where the band should be? It is a continuous grade, from shoulder to neck. Where do you determine where the shoulder stops and the neck starts?

 

Take a narrow cylindrical object - a pencil, a knitting needle, a screwdriver blade, your finger, etc. - and slide it along the top of the trapezius from the shoulder towards the neck.  You'll find that it just naturally stops at the neck point.






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