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Shirtmaking woes


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#19 Dunc

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Posted 31 May 2018 - 08:52 PM

Just coming back to this on the topic of felling seams, here's another technique I've been experimenting with which you might like to try: sew the first seam without any folding, but with the bottom piece s.a. extending beyond the upper piece s.a. by the appropriate amount, then fell the seam using a scroll hem foot. My 1/4" industrial scroll hem foot seems to go over any seams coming in at right angles without even noticing them, and I think this approach has somewhat wider tolerances than the conventional approach with a felling foot and two folding operations. With the right workflow, it could also mean fewer foot changes (which is becoming more of an issue for me now that I need a screwdriver to change the foot).


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#20 dpcoffin

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Posted 01 June 2018 - 04:54 AM

Interesting; I love creative applications of specialized presser feet:) If I understand correctly, you're not actually "felling" the seam allowances (I.e., they don't get nailed down to the garment along-side the seam), you're wrapping them together, sort of like a so-called "French" seam finish (there's that French thing again!), with them just sitting behind the seam itself, yes?

 

Re: [posting images, I'm sold on imgur as an all-purpose, long-lived website for posting and formatting images in various forums, works great in my experience.
 


Edited by dpcoffin, 01 June 2018 - 04:54 AM.


#21 posaune

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Posted 01 June 2018 - 06:14 AM

I maybe understand something not correct (my english). My feelling foot works with 2 s.a. The one with 0.5 cm and the one which wraps around is 1. 25 (or so). 

But I have to do 2 seams. First sew together. Then fell. I have no srcoll feet which I think that is something with a "device which rolls". I have to controll the surplus or negative ease iwith my fingers having no "rolling device" which helps me with the traction.
Dunc, some pics would help me a lot to understand the whole matter.

lg

posaune


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#22 Philip_AMS

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Posted 01 June 2018 - 11:09 AM

https://postimg.cc/gallery/1hqob96j4/

Here are the pics I made for my original reply to the post

#23 Dunc

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Posted 01 June 2018 - 07:01 PM

David: No, the result is a felled seam very similar to that produced with a felling foot... It's just that the larger s.a. doesn't get folded over and caught in the first seam. I'm away from my machine today, but I'll try to post some images to show what I'm talking about over the weekend.

#24 dpcoffin

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Posted 02 June 2018 - 04:47 AM

Ah, OK; I get it now, Dunc; thanks! Great idea…


Edited by dpcoffin, 02 June 2018 - 04:47 AM.

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#25 Dunc

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Posted 04 June 2018 - 06:42 PM

OK, hopefully these will help illustrate what I'm talking about... I'm using two different fabrics from my scraps bag to make it a bit clearer which piece is which.

 

First operation: seam the two pieces together, with different SAs. The narrow SA is a bit less than the width of the finished seam, and the wide SA is a bit less than twice that - I'm going to be using a 1/4" (6.4mm) scroll foot, so my SAs are about 6 and 11mm:

 

40732900800_a2a223ef18.jpg

 

(Sorry the white fabric isn't particularly visible here.)

 

Next, the seam is opened and the SAs pressed over - I forgot to get a photo of this stage. I'm doing this with the iron for now, but I would hope that with practice I'll be able to do it by hand as I fell the seam.

 

Second operation: the seam is now felled using the scroll hemming foot. Starting this off involves folding the seam over by hand and sewing a couple of stitches, before lifting the foot and pulling the SA into the foot. (There are plenty of YouTube videos showing how to use a scroll hemmer if this isn't clear - it's easier to show than to describe.)

 

40732897220_33e86da025.jpg

 

Getting a good finish with the scroll foot involves a bit of practice - you kind of need to lift the fabric a bit so that it runs into the scroller at the right angle for it to fold smoothly. Again, it's much easier to show than to describe.

 

The inside of the finished seam, showing two rows of stitching:

 

40732892600_3b5c1aea16.jpg

 

The outside of the finished seam, showing one row of stitching:

 

40732891110_71bd6afd6b.jpg

 

Does that make sense?



#26 Dunc

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Posted 04 June 2018 - 06:45 PM

(You can click through on any of the photos and then zoom in on them in Flickr to get a better look...)



#27 dpcoffin

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Posted 04 June 2018 - 07:25 PM

Neat!


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#28 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 04 June 2018 - 11:03 PM

That is good.

 

Also, those scroll hemmers seem to reproduce in the foot collection box, they must have made millions of them.


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 04 June 2018 - 11:04 PM.

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