The Men’s Shirt (Text only)
Main Dimensions: ½ ¼ ⅛
Kg = Body Height 176 cm 88 — 44— 22
Ow = Chest 96 cm 48 — 24— 12
Al = Arm Length 76 cm incl. shoulder seam 16 cm
Hw = neck width 39 cm measured from the body
Sp = back neck 6.5 cm 1/6 neck width
at = armscye depth over shoulder 23.4 cm 1/10 Ow + 1/10 half Kg + 5 cm
Rl = waist length 47 cm ¼ Kg + 3 cm
Lg = length 90 cm half Kg + 2-4 cm
Vl = front length 45 cm Rl - 2 cm
Ad = A' diameter 15.5 cm ⅛ Ow + 3-4 cm
Back and Front — fig. 317
Draw a square from point A. From here one measures: til RH (the rear armscye depth + an extra 3-4 cm), til TI the back length and until Lg, the total length.
After drawing off the squares, one must measure from RH— BB half bust + 9—10 cm, with S found in the middle of RH— BB. From S is measured per 1/2 Ad (see Auxiliary Calculations) to AV and RB.
From T, til H1, the front length is measured upwards, and from H1 a square is drawn to the right.
NECK SEAM, SHOULDER, ARMSCYE: The distance A—W amounts respectively to 1/10 half neck width, the line A— h = SP (above). From H1— h1 one must measure as much down as from A—W. The width of the neck seam H1—H is Sp minus 0.5 cm. The depth of h1— H2 is just SP + 1 cm. The distance a— ah and At—Ah each amount to 1/10 half Ow minus 1 cm.
YOKE SECTION: From W, 4.5 cm are placed downwards and results in a right angle of the yoke seam to the armscye. In the front, one separates off an approximately 4 cm wide shoulder piece, applying this to the back yoke as shown in the template. Under the back yoke there are 2 cm to remove at the armscye.
PLEATS, FRONT OVERLAP AND SIDE SEAM: The mid-back is about 6 cm for the pleat and the mid-front a 2 cm wide addition to the front overlap. If the front overlap is not carried out to the bottom edge, then about 3 cm below T attach a 4-6 cm wide pleat.
Sleeves and cuff - fig. 318
Next draw a baseline angle and define K. Then from K— B measure ½ armscye circumference. Measure the arm length: K is introduced from the shoulder seam and subtract 5.5 cm (the cuff) to obtain L. On the left of the perpendicular line of L— L1, half cuff width + 4 cm is provided and L1 is connected to B. From B — C is measured 1/10 half of Ow + 2 cm downward and the sphere (curve of the shoulder) is recorded according to the template: the dotted line comes forward. The drawing of the side seam is according to the template.
The cutting draft of the cuff is according to fig. 318.
Collar Types – figs. 319-323
The detachable collar: Fig. 319 shows the cutting draft of the neckband. Fig. 320 the detachable, normal collar, the front flow of the collar is where to adjust for the respective mode. The regular seamed collar is indicated in fig. 321.
Collar setting for high neck is in fig. 322, and can be seen on the line A-a. The collar installation of for short neck is located on page 136 (though it has been kindly pasted into the bottom section of this main body front draft).
All seams have yet to be added!
Edited by Schneiderfrei, 01 March 2014 - 10:57 PM.