Still this is only a practice trouser, my first project after 21 years. The trouser is not perfect, it looks like perfect. It also fits quite well. But the next trouser will have changes. I had to work after the old books and every book says something else and thinks right. Today we have better minds than the old tailors which mostly didn't work to accurate with their hand stitching seam over seam like concrete, nothing really straight. I have 3 high rise from 1936 laying here, terrible made but still good for that time. The principle of making the waist is always the same but not the cleanness.
For the next trouser, I would not put so much ease over the bottom, they did a little bit too much with 1/20 Gu in 1930. Though it looks like cosy like in the old days. Some tailors almost produced a tent over the bottom. Plenty of things in the making I would also change to make it more rational. For instance I made the mistake to sew with 3 different threads and I always had to change threads including machine adjustments. I will never do that mistake again. But I did not find the right thread in the beginning here so I stumbled around and it came to switch around. I also would cut on the waist in the back trouser. It makes changes easier plus it is very hard to iron dress the straight waist band up to the fish tail. The fish tail could have been a little bit higher, but this is only possible with cut on waist band. I also will avoid a pleat, I am not too slim anymore and I don't need all those width in the front. Also the dress bulge on the left side confuses me, most people will waive it. Modern drawers make the dress obsolete.
I still see my father and grandfather walking with such pants, and people were laughing in the 70this what weird pants they had.
It is very hard and time consuming to make such trouser, once I am sorted I should produce such trouser maybe in 3 days with the same or better quality. I only do hand stitching where it is necessary, cause there is no other way around to make it look nice. There is already a lot of basting involved. I almost never sew free hand…maybe cloth without design/stripes you could do free hand.
The high rise comes with a German or English lining. The German lining is covering the fish tail. The English lining leaves it open. I prefer the German lining as it looks cleaner.
Another funny thing when I started, I took out my basting thread I bought in eBay. The 2km Spool was probably from the 50thies original wrapped and I did a few stitches and it always dissolved into pieces after 3 stitches. I thought it was the needle and I tried hard couldn’t make it and finally took some white thread which never tore. We need to find someone to palm off the nice ancient spools of basting thread which never works and drive you crazy.
Edited by Der Zuschneider, 15 December 2010 - 03:04 PM.