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trousers- back leg clean up without ironwork

trousers pants womens ladies fitting ironwork

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#1 theBlackSheep



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Posted 21 February 2018 - 06:30 AM

hello all,

a question about ironwork, or lack of, when trying to get a good fit on the back leg of trousers.

this is specifically in reference to a slim women's cut; if the figure has a full seat and prominent calves, then the seat angle and depth can only be shortened/straightened so much in an attempt to remove the untidiness that occurs between seat and calf.

if ironwork is not an option, say for non-wool cloth or large scale production environments, and the cloth has only a small amount of weft stretch, then what can be done to minimise the folds that run down the back leg, if anything?

the calf area on the back leg has been shaped slightly and the knee notch shifted up a touch and back leg length increased slightly in an attempt to throw some extra fullness where it's needed at the lower leg.

i'm heading towards settling for a looser fit through the leg to eliminate the issue.

any suggestions are much appreciated, as always. thank you.


#2 posaune



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Posted 21 February 2018 - 09:17 PM

You can dress a cotton trouser as well. Mostly in the back crotch seam, there where it is on the bias. It will stretch.

The calves: you did right. You look that the back leg is wider a bit, where the prominent "peak" of the calf is (maybe 0.7 cm each side, depends on fabric). And sure you must try to iron the extra length in or ease it in while sewing. The angle and length of the back crotch must be altered. Mostly there is an inlay at the center back seam. If you have any scraps left from the cutting, you can set in a little triangle at the inseam so the crotch diameter gets larger and because of this the back crotch seam longer. It does not show and nobody sees this.

With a wider leg you will less difficulties. Be careful how wide you do the leg. Not that you customer looks like a recangle afterwards.


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#3 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 23 February 2018 - 01:21 PM

The inner back leg seam above the knee notch has to be stretched. The knee notches, front and back, have to be on top of each other.

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#4 theBlackSheep



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Posted 24 February 2018 - 05:16 AM

thank you for your suggestions- it seems that the problem is also exacerbated if the waist is dropped for stylistic purposes which seems to shift the hang badly.

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