12 replies to this topic

[deborahlewislondon]

Hello, 

 

Can anyone tell me what they think the required pattern adjustment for this men's jacket is? 

 

The lapel sits nicely on the chest. 

 

The waist fits well, as does the armhole. 

 

He has does not having sloping shoulders. 

 

Thank you! 

 

Deborah 

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Edited by deborahlewislondon, 16 October 2015 - 09:02 PM.

[Terri]

Does it show on both sides of the body or just his right?
When you say the armhole was fine, were you seeing it before the sleeves went in?

Edited by Terri, 16 October 2015 - 09:07 PM.

[meiissi]

Hi Deborah,

 

from what I can see it´s a problem of the armhole. Either the entire armhole has to be widened or the seamallowance needs to be cut down more. Maybe you can achieve this also by using slimmer shoulderpads and see; unfortunately the foto does not show the fit around the shoulder area.

There is another possibility and I tend to this one the most: As the dart does not sit correctly i would believe the woman on the foto is wearing a mans coat. This means, that the harmony of shoulder - lapel - chest - and dart is out of blance entirely. If you were to shift the entire piece towards the neck, the wrinkles would disappear, but as the neck in in the way you cannot do that.

So I personally would think there is no quick fix to that, but an opening of the whole jacket and making the fronts to the actual wearer. Hopefully the fabric has been left in at the darts..

[deborahlewislondon]

Hi Terri and Meiissa, thanks for yours.
I did not make this standard jacket for him, but I need to understand the pattern problem he has with standard jackets. I will check the armholes again. If it is not an armhole problem, do you think lifting the front shoulder where it meets the sleeve would solve it?

[posaune]

is the problem on both sides? I too think it has to do with the armhole. But armhole and bust work together
If it was a woman I would look for the size of the bust dart.
So maybe it is the form of his bust - it looks like the jacket is not constructed for it.
lg
posaune

[daristi]

this man might have besides a stomach too heavy bottom , ie a hollow back ?

[deborahlewislondon]

Hi Terri and Posaune, sorry I forgot to add that the problem is on both sides. 

 

Yes, because this is a man in a man's jacket, I want to smooth over the area, not shape around it.

Daristi, the seat is flat and his back is not hollow. The fullness is only in the front. 

 

Options, I think, are:

1. Check the fit again around the armhole and possibly increase the armscye depth and/or width.

2. Increase the waist circumference and shape the back by the same amount?

3. Lift the shoulder slightly as in the alteration for 'sloping shoulders'?

 

Next time I ask for help I will post better photographs! Thanks for your time  

[greger]

Maybe this is more in the "birds breast" category of fitting. Indeed, the best tailors conceal problems so the customer looks normal. Not sure tailors use this description for the last 100 years for this problem.

[Terri]

I would either take the sleeves out completely or partially to see what is going on.
If the coat is cut with a very straight neck point, then the front armhole may have excess length. That may show itself as you have pictured.
A more crooked neck point would shift excess out of the armhole similar to what Meiisi has said.

That would mean shifting the neck point outwards, and to maintain the overall shoulder length you would need fabric available at the armhole side to redraw the shoulder and freshape the armhole.

I'd also assess the overall chest circumference with the sleeves out, as it looks like there is more than one thing going on.

[deborahlewislondon]

Thanks Terri, 

 

Unfortunately I can't take the sleeves out to see what is going on as it is not my jacket. 

 

In my opinion the coat is cut with a very straight neck point but the jacket doesn't look tight at the front of the jacket. 

 

I think you are right, there is more than one thing going on - width and length. 

 

Greger, that is a pretty good description of the problem! 

[Terri]

Pigeon chest, or overly full chest maybe but that usually presents with the lapels bowing and sitting away from the chest. You could pinch out a "dart" right through the lapel at the prominent area.
If there isn't enough circumference in the chest perhaps it is forcing the excess to sit as it is in your photo.

[meiissi]

Deborah, is there an option we could get a foto from the owner wearing the coat? I would like to see the entire jacket front and the sideview. No head needed ;-)

[deborahlewislondon]

Hi all, 

 

Thanks for all your help with this! The jacket was postponed for a while but recently finished. Uploading a profile photo of it on my customer - in William Halstead Tweed (the old jacket was a 'template') It is 'made-to-measure' (UK definition); not bespoke. As you can see it fits pretty well 

 

Deborah 

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