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Lapels does not lay flat on chest

jacket lapels lapels problem

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#1 pali

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 12:25 AM

Hello all,
 
I have a problem with jacket lapels. Lapels does not lay flat on chest. How can I fix it. I need to edit pattern for jacket (see pictures), so that lapels were sitting on the chest. I would appreciate any advice about how can I fix this problem.
 
Thanks
 
Pavol

Edited by pali, 06 March 2014 - 12:27 AM.

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#2 Rory Duffy

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 12:32 AM

Hey Pavol,

Place a dart through the lapel, sometimes called a neck cut or dart. I start mine 1 5/8 from the edge of the lapel and lined up with the centre of the chest. Take a 1/4 - 1/2 wedge out of the break and finish the dart out so it's hidden under the lapel. Be sure to add the dart amount to the edge of the lapel in the pattern.
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#3 Schneidergott

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Posted 06 March 2014 - 01:46 AM

For a start check your shoulder slope. Looks like the shoulders are too slanted!

There might be other issues as well.


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#4 jcsprowls

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 01:37 AM

A hammer dart may help; but, I tend to reserve that for women or barrel-chested men. Your pictures do not indicate a barreled chest, so I'd consider another approach.

 

I'd start with the easiest alteration, first... I like to work rationally and in layers.

 

The cross-front (X-FR) measurement looks to be too wide in the draft. The curve of the front armscye touches this guideline in the draft - yours looks like it needs to be scooped out a little more. Generally speaking, the X-FR is 1/2" (1.2cm) narrower than the X-BK. Eliminate that one first - it's the easiest alteration and can be performed to the existing garment. The sleeve may need to be re-drafted; but... that's the price of not proving the body before drafting the sleeve.

 

Once the easy alteration is out of the way, re-fit. There appear to be other issues. But, let's take them one at a time.


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#5 jukes

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Posted 19 March 2014 - 03:51 AM

I would also go for shoulder slope, you seem to have quite square shoulders which has not been allowed for. The weight of the coat is on the shoulder ends which is why its standing off the neck.


Edited by jukes, 19 March 2014 - 03:59 AM.


#6 pali

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Posted 24 March 2014 - 11:57 PM

Thanks for help.
I modified shoulder slope.
Everything is alright now.





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