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Posted 24 August 2013 - 01:38 AM
Hi! I'm still trying to find the logic in pattern drafting, but I have a tremendous doubt.
What's the difference between seam allowance and inlay? Is it the same? (Spanish words for many tailoring concepts are practically nonexis
I made a pattern following Poulin's trouser drafting formula, but when he explains the layout of the pattern over the fabric, he never says anything about how much the seam allowances should measure. Is it because it's understood that a standard amount of seam allowance must be left and then apply the inlay?
I would really appreaciate if someone could clarify my doubt.
Thanks!
Posted 24 August 2013 - 06:33 AM
In men's draft there is mostly 0.75 cm seam allowance included. If not it is mentioned.You see the dashed lines in the Rundschau draft. The shaded area are the inlays.
The inlays are "enlarged" seam allowances which are used for fitting.
lg
posaune
Posted 21 September 2013 - 11:00 AM
I belive Poulins seam allowances are 1/4 inch in the finished draft. The inlays are added on the cloth. So chalk the cloth around the pattern,marking balance marks, then add the inlays and cut. Now thread mark the balance marks and edge of the pattern where the inlays are. Bast the garment together with no pockets and try on. Adjust the seams, including the dart widths until the clott hangs well. Change the pattern according and sew up the pants.
Poulin doesn't show the corners of the hip pockets very well in making, that is the "prongs" at the corrners. Some other books show it.
Posted 07 December 2016 - 05:52 PM
The information you shared is very helpful, from where do you get such information to post here. Any references?
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