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Help with fitting men's shirt muslin

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#217 Schneiderfrei



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Posted 17 May 2018 - 11:46 AM

Good work Dunc!



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Shell made out of gold
Found on a beach picked up and you held so close

#218 benjaminh



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Posted 19 May 2018 - 01:09 AM

Thank you all for your suggestions. Schneiderfrei has very kindly provided me with a translated copy of a pretty recent Rundschau shirt draft that I will be using. I'm planning to start drafting this weekend, but then will have to wait until more fabric arrives for some new muslins. Again, I have to express my appreciation for all the help that this forum has provided me with.

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#219 posaune



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Posted 19 May 2018 - 06:38 PM

Do yourself a favor - do no yoke. Do a shoulder seam. (because your shoulder and neck area is a bit difficult to fit). Sew the horizontal dart at the back. Make a s.a. about 3 cm at shoulder and side seams . If you want more than 1 cm s.a. at armholes and neck do 2 cm and clip them around about 1 cm.

Draw on the mousseline the bustline and waist line all around. An on each part the grainline vertical. Wait with the sleeve patterntill after the first fitting.

I wish you much success.



Edited by posaune, 19 May 2018 - 06:39 PM.

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#220 lopez



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Posted 07 July 2018 - 01:53 AM

this is a most amazing topic and Benjaminh, you're amazing at what you pulled off. / i'm trying to do tailored knits for muscly men, and am struggling mightily with getting a proper muslin on them first as well. i hope you don't quit the snug shirt because yeah- that's the hardest but you can pull back and add ease later.


it's so funny reading about your sleeve "naivte" because i've waited multiple YEARS to be able to fit a sleeve from scratch to my own roommate.


i'm learning from books and trying in person, but i've no mannequin and have to read a LOT and rehearse fittings in my head because these guys at the gym all BEG me to use them as models, but no one wants to stand STILL for more than 15, 20 minutes so i have to learn super fast.


i'd come here and saw all the photos blank before, so i'd struggle on my own until one day an 82 year old tailor came up to me after a fitting and tore my work apart and when i proudly said i'd learned at the library, he said in disgust: "THE LIBRARY TAUGHT YOU THIS???" and i laughed and i was so grateful he even walked up to me. he told me a dozen things in quick succession (like the cats here), and i spent the last 3 months taking out even MORE books to understand all he said.


he is also like the cats here, in that he won't give me open access to him and his knowledge; i have to PROVE to him i listened. then i can see a faint smile in his EYES. when i explained i wanted to make the most perfect tailored t-shirt EVER (yeah with darts in front and in back to accentuate the small of a man's back--what you all call sway back is gorgeous shape to me), he even sat down on the sidewalk outside the gym a few weeks back (82 years OLD!!!) to teach me how to do a "dancer's sleeve" (shortened cap and long underarm seam--as if you'd drafted the sleeve for an arm held out to one's side).


now that most people are sedentary now, men with a classic "V" shape that they work on so hard to get, they want shirts that FIT and SHOW OFF ALL THAT WORK. who knew? one of my original teachers years ago told me NEVER PUT A DART ON THE FRONT OF A MAN'S SHIRT. EVER.


but when i have both shoulder and waist dart (i'm not doing princess seams because as an artist i don't want to CUT the body up into seams. i actually like the novelty of darts in knits. i'm even considering a 2-piece sleeve (maybe to coincide with a side panel for huge guys), or a cut-on sleeve attached to the bodice (tight kimono) with an underarm gusset. i'm a visual artist since birth, so i want the man's body to be noticed before what's covering him. i'm even doing the shaped back seam on the FOLD for about 5" in the upper middle back because i don't want his back bisected.


but on YOUR shirt, Benjaminh, maybe you could use a woven cotton with lycra because it's very smart on you close fitted like that.


and all youse guys who talked him through this...WOW. what LOVE!


i found this entire thread more thrilling than my PBS mysteries used to be to me. (smile)


thank you all for doing this learning and teaching in public. i'm inspired because i was feeling low about how many once-embarrassing YEARS it was taking me to get a proper sloper on grain because i hadn't SEEN such dramatic darts and such. everything in books is all theoretical to an unrealistic mannequin. fitting pro athletes is... EEK!


that said: you all should know that guys at the gym is an untapped tailoring market. i can't go fit anyone without having a half a dozen guys come up and wanna know what i'm doing and if i can do them and they never even knew it was POSSIBLE to wear casual clothes that actually fit and weren't all blousy around their waists and shorts hanging like big skirts.


my tiny business idea is to do a set of slopers for a man so that i can do a number of tshirts and pants and jackets for them to wear daily since men around here wear pants and tshirts mostly. even to nice places. (hey, it's california)


a woman offered to sew for me but i said, "nah, learn this yourself because you could have your own business as there's no way i can handle all the people who've been coming up to me. they didn't even know such a thing could or WOULD exist for them."


there. just so you know.

#221 lopez



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Posted 07 July 2018 - 02:00 AM

oh yeah-- Benjaminh:

i just thought of something about your sleeve confusion that worked for me (different things click for different folks), but the GRAIN/HORIZONTAL LINES on the sleeve helped me instantly get the drag lines out and get a proper cap height finally.

#222 lopez



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Posted 07 July 2018 - 02:05 AM

Benjaminh: also, it's amazing you did this to YOURSELF. epic to me.

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