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Help with fitting men's shirt muslin


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#19 peterle

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Posted 17 February 2018 - 04:49 AM

Read my text, compare both pattern drafts and you will find out yourself...



#20 benjaminh

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Posted 17 February 2018 - 08:58 AM



Read my text, compare both pattern drafts and you will find out yourself...

 

OK, I've looked as long and hard at the draft as possible, and I think I can see a slight S shape to the top of the side seam. Not very prominent, but I think it's there. I've added an exaggerated curve beside the one in the draft, to show where I think the s curve that is being referred to is.

 

al4ujns8uyai5ux4g.jpg

 

I'll modify my pattern to include this, and likely make up a muslin over the weekend.



#21 benjaminh

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Posted 17 February 2018 - 01:15 PM

Here's the updated pattern draft: dgmgsl5mx0c7a2v4g.jpg



#22 posaune

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Posted 17 February 2018 - 08:44 PM

you must look that at the end of a seam where it is attached to another seam there is a right angle, otherwise it looks funny and not right. Lay the pattern as sewn one to the other and you will see what I mean. With your last pattern you get a nice curve with your first pattern not - it will have a peak.

When finished you walk your pattern anyway to see if all is right. It is called trueing the pattern in english. (right exprression?)

lg

posaune


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#23 peterle

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 12:41 AM

You´ve found it. Perfect.

 

It´s important to learn to see wether a line is straight, curved or double curved like in this case.


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#24 greger

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 04:26 AM

The curve of the bottom part of the front armhole looks wrong. Not enough shape. At the fitting you can snip it. Better snip than not having enough. 


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#25 dpcoffin

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 04:39 AM

Benjamin, please note, as greger implies, that drafting is not fitting. That happens at the muslin stage with pinned and drawn adjustments to the seams and fabric based on how the muslin, cut from whatever draft you've chosen, drapes from the figure. Choosing to use a different draft may certainly be helpful, but unless you're very lucky and the muslin fits perfectly right from the draft, it will still need fitting. Which is not easy to do for one's self, but possible with some trial and error, I.e., pinning and marking while wearing, then basting, then trying on again, rinse and repeat…


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#26 benjaminh

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 02:12 PM

Benjamin, please note, as greger implies, that drafting is not fitting. That happens at the muslin stage with pinned and drawn adjustments to the seams and fabric based on how the muslin, cut from whatever draft you've chosen, drapes from the figure. Choosing to use a different draft may certainly be helpful, but unless you're very lucky and the muslin fits perfectly right from the draft, it will still need fitting. Which is not easy to do for one's self, but possible with some trial and error, I.e., pinning and marking while wearing, then basting, then trying on again, rinse and repeat…

 

Yes, I realise this. It just seemed that my last attempt at making a pattern from an existing shirt had some serious issues, so, on peterle's advice, I decided to start over with a hopefully more solid pattern, and do my fitting from there.

 

By the way, I really appreciate your shirtmaking book; it's been invaluable.



#27 dpcoffin

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Posted 18 February 2018 - 02:59 PM

I look forward to seeing how you get on; good luck! Glad to hear my book's been helpful, too; thanks for saying so:) 

 

Since I'm not a tailor, I tend to stay out of advice threads here, assuming questions posted here are intended for those who are.

 

But if you—or anybody—ever does have questions for me, they're welcome any time, via messages here, on Facebook, through my website, etc.


Edited by dpcoffin, 18 February 2018 - 03:00 PM.


#28 greger

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 12:33 PM

Glad you write here, Dave. And sale your books. 



#29 dpcoffin

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 01:05 PM

Thank you, greger; glad to learn from you all!



#30 benjaminh

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 07:15 AM

OK, here's a muslin made from the new draft.

 

First obvious issues I notice are that: 

the armscyes are too shallow

the bottom of the shirt is too tight, which makes bending down difficult

the back of the neck doesn't sit right

 

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#31 greger

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 12:51 PM

Shoulder slope looks off. Your shoulders look flatter than the shirt. Both necklines would be dropped if that is the problem. 

Sewing the shoulder seams need to end about at the collar seam. The cloth needs to spread. 

Back is to long. Drop the back neckline. 

If you had added an inch inlay along the sideseams you could have let where needed out. 



#32 Dunc

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 08:44 PM

At this stage, I think it's best to not even divide off the yoke - just join front and back with a single seam along the top of the shoulder. Leave plenty of inlay on this seam (at least one inch on both sides) so that you can adjust it. This makes it easier to determine the correct shoulder pitch, which is absolutely critical in fitting a shirt, especially a close-fitting one. If you haven't got the shoulder pitch right, nothing else will sit right either.

 

Speaking of shoulder pitch, it looks to me like you have quite a significant difference between left and right shoulders here, which is going to present some complications. I'm afraid I'm nowhere near good enough a shirtmaker yet to tell you how best to deal with that...

 

I'd also say that you've cut the hem curve way too high on the hip - I've made this mistake myself, and it results in a shirt that won't stay tucked in at the sides. It also makes it much harder to roll the hem.



#33 peterle

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 11:32 PM

Your individual figur is: your right shoulder is deeper than your left. your belly sways a little bit forward and your butt protrudes the shoulder fall line.

 

The folds in the back ar´nt necessarely due to a too long back balance. Maybe it´s just because the shirt is too tight at the hips and thus sits on your butt. opening the side seam from the hem to about 5cm below the waistline (a horizontal line through 17) will show. The side seams will gape at the hips

 

At first I would adress the too short front balance: just let out a bit of the front inlays at the yoke seam, lets say about 1,5cm parallely to the existing seamline.This will give us some room for judging the armholes and the shoulder slope. The lower right shoulder should be adressed later. Look in the forum to get an idea, there should be posts about low shoulder adjustments.



#34 posaune

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Posted 22 February 2018 - 12:51 AM

When I saw that pattern I wondered. The front is to short in my eyes even when a part of it wandered in the yoke.  And I see now in your pics that this is the case.

lg

posaune



#35 benjaminh

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Posted 22 February 2018 - 10:13 AM

Thank you all for your excellent advice, I appreciate it.

 

I've done the two modifications suggested to me by peterle, as it seemed a logical place to begin fitting: drop the front by 1.5cm, and split the seam to 5cm from the waist.

 

This made a significant improvement in overall fit:

 

 

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#36 benjaminh

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Posted 24 February 2018 - 02:09 AM

Any tips on where I should go from here? What do you guys think about the neckline? Is it cut too low?






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