I have nearly finished making and fitting a waistcoat. This exercise, together with an earlier attempt to make a coat, has resulted in a list of adjustments I believe I need to make to the standard draft. I want to try to apply these to a shirt draft, but it is not entirely clear to me how to do this.
The main adjustments I found were needed for the waistcoat were:
- a longer back, to allow for a slightly stooped posture
- closer neck points on the fronts to allow for a relatively flat chest and prevent bulging in the lapel area
- more width across the shoulder blades at the back, achieved through a combination of letting out the centre back seam and reducing the slope of the shoulders
- for a significantly lower and set back right shoulder, a pivoting of the top of the right back piece from a point at the centre of the back in line with the bottom of the arm, a corresponding shortening of the side seam on the right front and a slight taking in of the right shoulder seam.
The longer back is straightforward enough, as is the shoulder angle and back width. Neck points presumably can't be changed on a shirt as the button and button hole edges are straight right up to the neck. The main issue then is the low right shoulder adjustment. Coats, vests and shirts all have two piece backs, but the first two are split vertically whereas shirts are split horizontally. The options would seem to be to make the adjustments in the yoke (to leave a relatively horizontal seam) or the back piece (giving a sloping seam but a symmetrical yoke), or a bit of both. My instinct is to leave the yoke alone and make an adjustment to the back piece only. Is this how it should be done?