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Seam allowances in jeans

jeans denim seams seam allowances

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#1 mhoyle

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Posted 04 July 2018 - 06:39 PM

Hi all,

 

Earlier this year I had the great opportunity to make my own pair of jeans at the jeans school in Amsterdam where we were being taught by their teacher. I now drafted my own pattern from the Rundschau system, and with help from this teacher I altered it so that it's now a straight leg pattern, fit for use with selvedge denim.

 

I'm ready to start sewing, but I have some choices to make for seam allowances.

Since I'm using lapped seams, as per usual with jeans, the teacher told me to use double the seam allowance on pieces that fold under. For instance 1cm on the top of the back leg, vs 2 cm on the bottom of the yoke since the back leg folds over keeping it's length and the yoke folds under losing 1 cm. The same goes for the back inseam vs the front inseam where the back is folded under so needs double the seam allowance.

 

The other parth where I'm using a lapped seam is of course the seat seam between the two back legs. My point now is: If i double the seam allowance on my right back leg, which is folded under, the fold won't be the center. The left leg plus the foldes seam will be the same size as the right leg minus the folded seam (which is 1 cm wide). Is this how it's supposed to be, or is the entire 1 cm wide fold supposed to be the center, and should I add 1,5 cm to both left and right back legs so that the center falls exactly in the middle of the 1cm folded seam?

 

I hope I explained this clearly. I've added a little drawing:

 

https://www.dropbox....G_5538.jpg?dl=0

 

 

 



#2 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 05 July 2018 - 12:25 AM

I would plan ahead and decide if my seams were to be felled, which is most common on jeans, or not. 

 

If felled, decide which way you want the fold to be. The seam can definitely remain on the drafted edge, but on one side you will leave, eg 6 mm and on the other piece it will be 12 mm. 

 

When you fell the side seams, I would think that the topside side seam would be 6 mm and the underside allowance 12 mm so the the fold faces backward. 

 

In that case the top stitching will lie before the seam but the seam will represent the drafted shape.

 

The seat seam wouldn't matter which way so much (to me), but you need to include these details in the final pattern, for efficiency.

 

The crotch seam and inseam are often; either dictated, by the construction of the fly, or left simply overcast, respectively.

 

G


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 05 July 2018 - 12:44 AM.

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#3 mhoyle

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Posted 05 July 2018 - 03:33 AM

So I've measured a lot of the jeans that I have, most of them by true denim geek companies so I'll take them as a solid reference and the conclusion is:

 

For the seat seam the drafted shape lies in the middle of the felled seam, in between the two rows of stitching. That means that for the seat seam both allowances would be the same (in my case 1,5 cm). The entire 1 cm stroke of felled seam seems to be the center in all those jeans.

 

As for the other seams: yes, you're right, the underlying part would be double the size, I'll draft my pattern now and get started sewing!

 

Thanks for the reply!



#4 Philip_AMS

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Posted 05 July 2018 - 06:11 AM

Hi mhoyle

Im the patten cutting and production teaching at the Amsterdam jean school, and yes always do 1cm and 2cm for felled seams and at the back we do 1.5cm on each side to make it central as you said.

I think it might have been the make your jeans in a weekend course run by denim city?

#5 Philip_AMS

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Posted 05 July 2018 - 06:16 AM

I have also just written a book which is for the amsterdam jeans school on making jeans, shirts and jean jackets. it will also be available to buy online I believe in September, but happy to help you out if you have questions in the meantime.
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#6 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 05 July 2018 - 09:37 AM

Yes, the back seam could be even.


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#7 mhoyle

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Posted 05 July 2018 - 10:06 PM

Hi mhoyle

Im the patten cutting and production teaching at the Amsterdam jean school, and yes always do 1cm and 2cm for felled seams and at the back we do 1.5cm on each side to make it central as you said.

I think it might have been the make your jeans in a weekend course run by denim city?

 

Yeah, it was that weekend. How cool that you're here as well. And I'd love to get a hold of a copy of that book! Is it just about making, or also about pattern drafting? For instance: I'd love to use a system for drafting a straight leg, instead of reshaping a normal pattern into a straight leg one.



#8 Philip_AMS

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Posted 06 July 2018 - 03:57 PM

Its just about making, it was written for the school for the students but they are planning to sell it online outside of the school
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#9 mhoyle

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Posted 08 July 2018 - 09:30 PM

Its just about making, it was written for the school for the students but they are planning to sell it online outside of the school

Ah, well, I'd still like to get my hands on it as soon as it's out :)

 

But then the other question: can you point me in the right direction/system for drafting a straight leg jeans? I used the Rundschau jeans and altered them into a straight leg. It works fine but not completely: the straight leg fit's perfectly but the waist was way too wide, even though I used the tightest measurement I could get, so that's probably due to the Rundschau method and not my measurements...



#10 posaune

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Posted 09 July 2018 - 01:00 AM

No, it was surely your measurements.

And if you buy the new trouser book there are drafts inside of a straight side seam.

https://www.muellers...konstrukt-hosen

lgh

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#11 mhoyle

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Posted 09 July 2018 - 04:10 AM

Thats The book that I have. Ill have another look, but I couldnt find a pattern for a jeans with a straight leg. Or should I use a normal trouser pattern with a straight leg?

As for the measurements, Ive taken the most narrow measurement I could possibly take on my body, but I still had to take in the jeans a good 8 cm. I really dont know how this is possible, but I really cant get a narrower waist nor hip measurement off of my body.

#12 Philip_AMS

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Posted 09 July 2018 - 06:33 AM

For most regular jeans a 10 rise should be fine. measure the waist from your favour pair of jeans. Most of the time it will be around 2 bigger then the waist is say. So for instance a 32 jean I would expect to have an actual waist of 34 (this is for non stretch denim) but some brands cut plus 1 only so 32 measures 33 but 2 is very standard

#13 posaune

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Posted 09 July 2018 - 07:26 AM

I thought you are looking for a draft for selvedge jeans. This is the draft at page 65. The rise is for a size 48 - 25 cm. Bu 84 and it is cut without any ease at Bu.

Then you have a jeans basic which sits leger on the hips the rise is (size 50)= 21 cm  Bu 90 - it is supposed to slide down a bit. page 60.

And another basic jeans pattern (normal height) size50 = 25.5 cm Bu 88 page 39

the Bu  (length of waistband) depends where you want the jeans to sit. So measure for the band in this height.

a normal jeans sits mostly about 2 finger above the hip bone.

I always draft up to the waist and then cut the jeans deeper as the customer wishes to wear it.  I - on the contrary to Philip - cut the Bu smaller as its measurement ( 2- 4 cm) because my experience with jeans is that the waistband and the jeans grows while wearing. But I cut for ladies and they want it tight.

lg

posaune



#14 mhoyle

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Posted 09 July 2018 - 07:45 AM

Thanks both for your replies.

@Philip_AMS Ive taken the waist from one of my favourite Lees and it is 97cm. The waist I actually measured on myself was 94. Yet when I finished the jeans it was much bigger than 94. I took into account all my seam allowances and cant see where I would have made the mistake in the pattern. But Ill draft another pattern tomorrow and see if Ive done anything wrong in my previous draft.

@posaune thanks for the explanation. Ill have a look at the pattern on page 65. I kind of dismissed it since the book uses it to make those funny gaucho pants, but of course it can be made into normal jeans. I do find that the knees look pretty wide (I like my jeans not skinny, but skinnier that that pattern.)

#15 mhoyle

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Posted 09 July 2018 - 06:06 PM

I realise the problem now. I see that the pattern calls for a yoke with two darts taken out. I seem to have ignored this bit in favor of a straight yoke over a curved one. I guess that might have caused the issue.

 

I do want a straight yoke, and not a curved one. Where would I take in the cms of those darts? 



#16 posaune

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Posted 10 July 2018 - 02:10 AM

Did you read

http://www.cutterand...c=4240&hl=jeans

?

maybe answers some of your questions

lg

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#17 mhoyle

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Posted 10 July 2018 - 06:15 PM

Yes, I did read that topic. 

I don't have many more questions though. I'll make a new pattern with the pattern from page 65. I only have to figure out about the yoke. 



#18 amateursarto

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 02:50 PM

I have also just written a book which is for the amsterdam jeans school on making jeans, shirts and jean jackets. it will also be available to buy online I believe in September, but happy to help you out if you have questions in the meantime.

Phillip,
Will this book be translated to English?
Pete

Edited by amateursarto, 12 July 2018 - 02:51 PM.

AMATEURSARTO





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