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#1 Kenn

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Posted 21 April 2019 - 11:09 AM

Hello,
I am asking for some help.
As directed months ago I just bought a vest pattern and started with this instead of drafting a pattern, although the drafting is fun.
So, I have made two vests and they turned out well but on the back along the neck line it is too high and does not lay flat across the top of the trapezius.
I think it's too high because it does not lay flat because there is too much material.
How can I correct this?
Thanks so much,
Kenn

#2 peterle

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Posted 21 April 2019 - 06:53 PM

Without pics it´s hard to say, but it sounds like you have square shoulders.

For the fitting,  open the shoulder seams nearly completely but keep the parts connected at the neckhole. Put it on and have a look how much the shoulderseams gape.


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#3 Kenn

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 06:08 AM

I have two photos but how to you post them here

#4 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 06:28 AM

Mostly people upload them to a third party website, like https://postimages.org/

 

You don't need to put up any personal identifiers, but it is better to have straight views of the:

 

Front, Back, Left and Right sides.

 

G


Shell made out of gold
Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#5 Kenn

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 06:32 AM

https://imageshack.u...20190421_115120
Hope this is right

#6 Kenn

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 06:44 AM

Thanks G

#7 Kenn

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 06:50 AM

https://i.postimg.cc...0421-115120.jpg
Maybe this will work

#8 Kenn

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 06:52 AM

https://i.postimg.cc...0421-115112.jpg
This is the back, I dont have one of the front yet.
Please be critical to anything anyone views that is wrong.

#9 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 02:25 PM

It isn't a lot to go on. :) But the back looks a little high. 

 

Measuring yourself is very difficult, it can be done, you must be creative.

 

I would recommend making only one change at a time.

 

Changes of as much as 0.5 cm can make a great difference.

 

At the side view, the top of the back obviously pokes up above the shirt collar. And there are folds developing underneath that area. It may be if you smoothly take the back down 0.5 - 0.75 cm that may fix both problems.

 

Always write down your changes.

 

Next time, show pictures of the entire garment: front, back, left and right. Preferably showing the hip as well.

 

There might be something to say about the back arm-hole as well.


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 23 April 2019 - 02:27 PM.

Shell made out of gold
Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#10 Kenn

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Posted 24 April 2019 - 10:04 AM

https://i.postimg.cc...0423-195521.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc...0423-195544.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc...0423-195559.jpg

#11 Kenn

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Posted 24 April 2019 - 10:07 AM

Here are the different views for more of a complete criticism.
I would like to know how to make the changes on the patterns.
Thank you
Kenn
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#12 peterle

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Posted 24 April 2019 - 07:02 PM

This seems to be a simple pattern. No front or back darts and the backseam seams to be totally straight, so it is meant to be a loose fit. Is it a belly pattern?

 

Alterations:

You have a hanging left shoulder. This is a standard alteration and You will find how to´s quite easily. Because your left shoulder hangs a bit more than usual and your left neck point is also lower than the right, choose an alteration that also  changes the neckhole.

 

A second thing: the waistcoat is propbably a bit too tight in the lower area of the back, that´s why it crawls up a bit and forms an area of loose fabric at the waist. Let out the side seams a bit for additional width. When you consider to draft your own pattern,  choose a belly pattern. It cares for the right  lengths at the center front and center back.


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#13 Kenn

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Posted 24 April 2019 - 08:18 PM

The pattern called for darts but I didn't put them in so it would fit looser.
I will take that into account.
So how do I get rid of the neck hole not laying flat along the bottom of the collar?

#14 Kenn

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Posted 24 April 2019 - 08:44 PM

To be clear and per the rules of the forum I am not looking for free advice on every single thing.
It's just that I cannot seem to find how to fix the neck hole in the books I have or on the internet.
Also the advice I am looking for is how to fix the pattern so it comes out right.
I am only sewing for myself so the pattern adjustments are just for my clothes.

#15 peterle

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Posted 25 April 2019 - 06:33 PM

Fixing the low shoulder will probably also change the neckhole fit sufficiantly.

Post 13 in this thread shows how to do it (thanks Posaune!):

http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=2994

You have to do it to the front and the back.



#16 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 30 April 2019 - 01:26 PM

What is going on for stupidity here?

 

The vest is good, just some waist suppression is missing in the back.


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