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Take thigh in without pulling the seat in too much?

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#19 Che Pasticcio

Che Pasticcio


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Posted 28 November 2010 - 04:35 PM

If you reduce the length of the back fork, you reduce the depth of the seat. So, don't tinker with the fork - place all your adjustments below that point.

Shaping the underside inseam between the existing fork and the knee causes the trouser to get closer to the back leg (i.e. a slimmer "cut"). So, if the blousing is under the buttock, this is the adjustment you want.

The saggy bottom problem in the photo is as SG said: front rise too short; back rise too long.

Work one up in a muslin to observe.

Would you leave the topside inseam between the fork and knee untouched? If you don't, what is done if the inseam lengths become different for non shaping cloth? I remember reading a thread about easing the inseam, and someone was mentioning a longer underside inseam and a short topside inseam that I believe was then shaped to be longer. I want to make my first trousers in some sort of cotton twill, so I'm not sure what I would have to do with a longer underside inseam, as I like my pants with a slimmer thigh.

Edited by Che Pasticcio, 28 November 2010 - 04:42 PM.

#20 posaune



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Posted 28 November 2010 - 08:06 PM

I draft the back inseam (underside?) about 0.5 - 1 cm shorter than the front inseam. It depends on the fabric how much I can stretch (dress) it. This seam has more bias than the front. This takes fabric away under the seat. But if I want a tight leg my draft will be with a smaller hem and knee width and I take away width between seat and knee in a nice curved seam on both sides.
If with a big behind only the back thigh is too wide I take only away at back.

#21 Martin Stall

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 08:20 PM

There's only so much you can do to the seam between fork and knee. If you hollow it out too much it will look horrible so you will have to reduce the knee width as well.

As for ease: The rear leg is stretched between knee and fork, on both sides. So the back length becomes longer. That means you just drop the notches at the knee, equal on inseam and outseam. That will create a nice hollow below the seat.
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

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