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Good fusibles?


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#1 carpu65

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 05:24 AM

Is true that all fusibles for suits are not all equal,and some "modern fusibles don't give the infamous "bubble" problem of majority of fused suits?



#2 greger

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 08:07 AM

Read that. Don't know.

What is nice about canvases, usually two (more like three) or more ingredients, each different, so, different property's, working together to create a good foundation, like a good foundation under a house. With really soft tailoring body bumps start showing through. That is like a house without a good foundation. When you look at the eve line, over time it's not straight and level. Few of these houses are left. New building codes have outlawed this method. If you want a golf, shooting, recreation coat soft is fine, or best. A business coat is for a good presentation. Unsightly bumps is not a good presentation.
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#3 posaune

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 11:37 PM

yes. Even Armani use them. They are very soft and need no high temperature for glueing.
lg
posaune
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#4 Schneidergott

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Posted 24 June 2016 - 06:53 AM

Is true that all fusibles for suits are not all equal,and some "modern fusibles don't give the infamous "bubble" problem of majority of fused suits?

 

The "bubble" problem is pretty much a thing of the past, as long as the factories use modern equipment for the fusing process.

Plus you can get fusibles for almost any purpose and for any cloth. You can only get problems when the temperature (too low and the glue doesn't bond with the fibres, too high and the glue evaporates or becomes brittle), time and type of glue don't match the cloth. The finer/ delicate the cloth, the finer the fusible and the glue layer has to be. The best fusibles have the glue applied as little dots, which makes the fusible and the cloth more flexible and softer after fusing.


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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#5 OJD

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 10:18 PM

 

The "bubble" problem is pretty much a thing of the past, as long as the factories use modern equipment for the fusing process.

Plus you can get fusibles for almost any purpose and for any cloth. You can only get problems when the temperature (too low and the glue doesn't bond with the fibres, too high and the glue evaporates or becomes brittle), time and type of glue don't match the cloth. The finer/ delicate the cloth, the finer the fusible and the glue layer has to be. The best fusibles have the glue applied as little dots, which makes the fusible and the cloth more flexible and softer after fusing.

 

Hmm, I have heard the exact opposite. That better fusibles DON'T have the little dots but a even surface of glue. Don't know which is true though. I've tried thin black weft inserted knit fusing on a fine worsted, and then let it go through a normal washing mashine at 60 centigrade 9 times, couldn't spot any bubbles or sign of weaknesses. Good enough for me.



#6 OJD

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Posted 27 June 2016 - 10:23 PM

yes. Even Armani use them. They are very soft and need no high temperature for glueing.
lg
posaune

 

Is this some kind of joke? 'EVEN ARMANI'? Is that some sort of weird irony? Armani are famous for shitty quality. And the also have different lines with oceans of difference regarding quality between them. The whole brand took off because the designer duo ripped out all interfacing in jackets and put them on Miami Vice. I mean, if you want to mention a quality brand that would use fusibles please be sensible. Using armani as a reference for quality in fusings would be to say something like: "Oh, 50/50 polycotton pocketing is soooo good, even H&M uses it on their designer collections".



#7 Henry Hall

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Posted 05 July 2016 - 06:40 AM

 

Is this some kind of joke? 'EVEN ARMANI'? Is that some sort of weird irony? Armani are famous for shitty quality. And the also have different lines with oceans of difference regarding quality between them. The whole brand took off because the designer duo ripped out all interfacing in jackets and put them on Miami Vice. I mean, if you want to mention a quality brand that would use fusibles please be sensible. Using armani as a reference for quality in fusings would be to say something like: "Oh, 50/50 polycotton pocketing is soooo good, even H&M uses it on their designer collections".

 

They put the interfacings on Miami Vice?


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Each phenomenon which is taken up should be treated with as much thoroughness as possible at that standpoint... One thing at a time and that done well!

 

- Otto Jespersen (How to Teach a Foreign Language).


#8 Schneidergott

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Posted 07 July 2016 - 04:32 AM

Ok, in case anybody wonders: I've deleted the insulting posts, as they have no place on this forum.

If you want to have a go at each other do it via PM or meet up in person and fight it out, Yorkshire style.

 


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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#9 OJD

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Posted 07 July 2016 - 09:01 PM

The problem with this forum is that there are too many wannabees posing as pros, quick to offer advice to new comers, which would be a good thing, except they have no * clue or experience of real world proffessional tailoring. Reading outdated rundschau articles or someones random blog entries does not make you a cutter. Just as little as looking at instructional videos on youtube makes you a tailor. Yet there they are, calling themselves pros offering useless advice without any casual experience to back it up. And in this specific thread, instead of contributing; a quick smirk. Let's transcribe this behaviour into the world of sports. Someone walks in to gleasons (a pro boxing gym), calling himself a pro with a record of 0-0-0, giving hints to newcomers, gets into the ring with someone and makes a joke about the way his opponent said something. That twat would get thrown out asap!

Now, why should I accept that behaviour here? Or anybody else for that matter.

This forum has gone downhill fast. Or maybe I have just started to realise its limitations.

#10 tailleuse

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Posted 08 July 2016 - 01:27 AM

The problem with this forum is that there are too many wannabees posing as pros, quick to offer advice to new comers, which would be a good thing, except they have no * clue or experience of real world proffessional tailoring. Reading ... someones random blog entries does not make you a cutter. 

 

I certainly hope that's not a reference to me.  I've never pretended to be a professional, although I have been taught by professionals trained in Europe who have made fine, hand-tailored clothes all their lives.  I occasionally post blog entries from the apprentice's blog of a major Savile Row establishment for discussion. Sometimes I recognize what they're doing, sometimes not. It's exciting to see what young people at the start of their careers are learning.


Dignity. Always, dignity. (Singin' in the Rain)


#11 Henry Hall

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Posted 08 July 2016 - 08:08 AM

OJD can be safely ignored. A mere noisome upstart. He has no idea what anyone is doing day-to-day.


  • tailleuse likes this

Each phenomenon which is taken up should be treated with as much thoroughness as possible at that standpoint... One thing at a time and that done well!

 

- Otto Jespersen (How to Teach a Foreign Language).





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