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New waistcoat


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#1 zokiTzar

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 01:53 AM

Hi
finally I have some time to do my own sewing
here is a waistcoat made out of salvaged old skirt
I did it for me just to practice, it is drafted and cut based
on T&C db waistcoat from june 1949
There are lots of mistakes but for first piece I am quite satisfied
it took me about 25 hrs to make it
without this forum and great people
and resources here it would be much more difficult to learn.

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#2 Martin Stall

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 03:22 AM

Wow. Is that the first time you made something?
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#3 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 03:40 AM

Tailoring is difficult.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#4 zokiTzar

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 03:45 AM

I did some skirts simple and some simple shirts
i studied fashion design but switched to paintinig Martin
so we could say this is my "first serious piece" :)
not sure i understand second reply though
anway after living 2yrs in london I am all pumped up to do more
next project are english type suspender trousers from T&C

#5 Martin Stall

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 04:34 AM

I think Zuschneider is looking at the same faults that I see, but I prefer to point at the fact that for a beginner, it ain't half bad. I've seen people in their third year of tailoring school struggle for three days on a jetted pocket. Yeah, tailoring is difficult. Keep going. Get better at it.
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#6 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 04:42 AM

:clapping: GJ for a first go. Did you have help or step by step instruction?
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#7 Martin Stall

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 04:47 AM

I think this guy just went and did what RR refuses to do. But I might be wrong.
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#8 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 05:03 AM

@ Martin ja Dat is wat ik betekende :pinch:
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#9 amateursarto

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 05:52 AM

I'm not skilled enough to see the faults, plus since I too an a beginner, I like to highlight the positive, so I say, "nice! :clapping: " ZT. BTW, just for the sake of acquiring a discerning eye, what are the faults DZ sees?

Thanks...
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#10 jukes

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 06:33 AM

Very nice, for a first attempt, you have obviously studied before putting this together.

#11 zokiTzar

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 08:52 AM

Thanks everybody for encouraging replies
I will try to dedicate more time to it and hopefully results will improve
As for instructions or step by step i didnt have any except T&C article and I have this book
http://www.amazon.co...77506305&sr=8-1

#12 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 11:14 AM

lookie there the Cabrera book :)
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#13 Sator

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 05:25 PM

I think this guy just went and did what RR refuses to do.


Way to go. Don't talk about it - just do it!!! :clapping:

#14 zokiTzar

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 07:49 PM

thanks all
starting trousers draft today :)
what would experienced among you say
my measures are 182 cm height
neck 20
51 inch chest
44 waist
31 inseam
48 hips/seat
should i always look for drafts that compensate for stout/corpulent figure
also judging by my photos above?
I know from rtw clothes i buy that i am on upper far end of sizes so I guess so?

#15 greger

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 06:03 PM

That is a very nice vest.

Did you make those button holes by hand? They look very nice.

#16 zokiTzar

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 06:45 PM

thanks greger
I am quite pleased for first work but buttonholes are disaster
i dont even dare to show them on photo properly
I am not skilled enough and cloth was fringig like hell
anyway next one should be better

#17 Terri

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 01:22 AM

starting trousers draft today
what would experienced among you say
my measures are 182 cm height
neck 20
51 inch chest
44 waist
31 inseam
48 hips/seat
should i always look for drafts that compensate for stout/corpulent figure
also judging by my photos above?
I know from rtw clothes i buy that i am on upper far end of sizes so I guess so?


You have a four inch difference between your waist and hips which is less than the "proportionate" usually given, which is 6", so you have to analyse your own figure.
These are the things I look for:
Where is the most "shape" on the person? What style of trouser are you drafting?

You look fuller in the front waist so you will need to take that into account, by using some of the corpulent/stout draft shaping. This depends as well on the cut of the trouser. If you are drafting a high waisted pair, the shaping at CF will be different than if you draft a low rise that sits under the belly.

Hip shape- Do you have a flat seat? an average seat shape or a full seat? This will affect the shaping of the CB angle, the run of the side seam and the amount of dart required.

I'd start with a flat fronted draft to get a good basic shape and fit. Obviously a fitting reveals many things but it is better to start with a pattern that accounts for your shaping. That will minimize the changes at the fitting stage.

p.s. good job on your first waistcoat.

what are the faults DZ sees?

I'd guess that the neck width and shoulder need a bit of tweaking/fitting as well as the bit of gaping along the front from neck to break point. But yes,

for a beginner, it ain't half bad.



#18 zokiTzar

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 02:53 AM

Thanks Terri
regarding vest thanks for comments
gaping fronts - i made small 2.5 inch deep and 3/4 wide dart sideways on the neckline opening unfortunately
it seems I would need two - one much higher where my chest and belly break happens too
i think this will solve it

But on collarless vests can you do darts like these as it show clearly ? otherwise collar hides them?
neck opening on back was too small and now is a bit deep in back

regarding trousers i drafted corpulent and normal type from T&C today in 1:1 and difference with my measurements is very small
then i cut corpulent draft and basted quick test from old cotton it looks promising back has no problems , hips i needed to take in
and front single pleat i had to shift a bit away from fly more to the middle front so it aligns when folded with center fold down the leg better




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