starting trousers draft today
what would experienced among you say
my measures are 182 cm height
51 inch chest
should i always look for drafts that compensate for stout/corpulent figure
also judging by my photos above?
I know from rtw clothes i buy that i am on upper far end of sizes so I guess so?
You have a four inch difference between your waist and hips which is less than the "proportionate" usually given, which is 6", so you have to analyse your own figure.
These are the things I look for:
Where is the most "shape" on the person? What style of trouser are you drafting?
You look fuller in the front waist so you will need to take that into account, by using some of the corpulent/stout draft shaping. This depends as well on the cut of the trouser. If you are drafting a high waisted pair, the shaping at CF will be different than if you draft a low rise that sits under the belly.
Hip shape- Do you have a flat seat? an average seat shape or a full seat? This will affect the shaping of the CB angle, the run of the side seam and the amount of dart required.
I'd start with a flat fronted draft to get a good basic shape and fit. Obviously a fitting reveals many things but it is better to start with a pattern that accounts for your
shaping. That will minimize the changes at the fitting stage.
p.s. good job on your first waistcoat.
what are the faults DZ sees?
I'd guess that the neck width and shoulder need a bit of tweaking/fitting as well as the bit of gaping along the front from neck to break point. But yes,
for a beginner, it ain't half bad.