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finished new pants after t&c draft


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#1 zokiTzar

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 01:07 AM

hi everybody
I managed to finish first trousers
they are done after t&c draft for corpulent chaps :)
material is fine worsted from huddersfield
it took me about 35 hours except long seams all is done by hand
hope you like them

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Edited by zokiTzar, 08 July 2010 - 01:16 AM.


#2 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 01:23 AM

Not bad, not bad at all

I personally would have done a corpulent trouser with no pleats and a recessed fly. I would have also added a little more rise to the front, but this is just me.

For your what, second attempt? pretty good! :clapping:
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#3 Sanguis Mortuum

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 01:32 AM

Very nice! The only real problem I can see is the diagonal creases from the crotch to the waistline, I'm not sure exactly how to fix this though.

The braces at the front seem to attach very close to the sides. I'm not sure if this is normal since I don't wear braces, but maybe they would drape better if they were moved a bit closer to the center so they could properly support the front of the trousers. This might help a bit with the above mentioned creases too.

Did you sew all the seams by hand, with just a needle and thread?! You certainly have more patience than I do! :p

#4 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 01:41 AM

Very nice! The only real problem I can see is the diagonal creases from the crotch to the waistline, I'm not sure exactly how to fix this though.

The braces at the front seem to attach very close to the sides. I'm not sure if this is normal since I don't wear braces, but maybe they would drape better if they were moved a bit closer to the centre so they could properly support the front of the trousers. This might help a bit with the above mentioned creases too.

Did you sew all the seams by hand, with just a needle and thread?! You certainly have more patience than I do! :p


These are the major problems with trying to make fitted corpulent trousers. You always will have excess material floating under the belly hence why I've learned that pleats are no good for bellied men. The recessed front as opposed to the advance front (typical with most corpulent drafts) displaces some of this excess material, especially while sitting. I'm just happy to see no horse-shoe folds in the back, good job :good:

SM, I sew all my trousers by hand, the only machining I do is the top-stitching around the tops and down the fly (on grown on bands). I got this down to about 12 hours. If you don't look at it as a time thing, it's quite therapeutic. The longs seams I pretty much meditate. Tailoring Zen or Darji Yoga which ever you like to call it.

Edited by J. Maclochlainn, 08 July 2010 - 01:42 AM.

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Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#5 zokiTzar

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 02:04 AM

thanks guys
I am devastated as I see too many wrongs and my standards are too high (H.Poole and similar)
Although they are my first , I cant look away from mistakes

I would like to make them with no fold on the legs to fall straight down to the shoe
and just a slight break, on the shoe like on older pictures my material is 8-9 Oz , should I iron the
shape in like jeff and others discussed here and is in rundschau book? I though for such width you dont need much iron work?
Yes long seams are machine made although I have machine old without electricity it is run by a foot :)

what do you think should I make next pair narrower down the leg , what would you recommend for my body shape of a beer barrel :)???

Pleats I know are not the best idea but I love single pleat and cuffs as well, couldnt help it, although I read that single pleat turned to the hips could work well on
this body type?
as for braces I read that front buttons come to the pleat and close or on side seam???

#6 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 02:35 AM

On my trousers, the button for the braces is in advance of the side-seam by one inch and I try to have the front brace button as near the centre as possible.

Width of leg is fine IMO, if you go for a skinny leg you will look more like an olive on a toothpick.

I love single pleat and cuffs


Being a larger man myself, I battle with this all the time, one of the true gifts you can give yourself is forsaking what you like in favour of what works best for you. It ends up looking better in the end.
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#7 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 02:36 AM

P.S.

by all means hit them with an iron, you can never go wrong with iron shaping.

Edited by J. Maclochlainn, 08 July 2010 - 02:37 AM.

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#8 zokiTzar

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 05:50 AM

Thanks J. Maclochlainn
I will try to iron them more, I have from same cloth cut already SB waistcoat I will do next, so they will be nice pair

I have two related questions
is there on forum some diagram of stretch and shrink areas on trousers
for iron work
as far as i remember i saw mostly coat manipulation
second is what do you recommend fro finishing edges on garments , zigzag shears, sewing blanket stich or simmilar or dressing them in tape?

#9 Nishijin

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 07:04 AM

Here you are :
http://www.cutterand...ch=1

I honnestly begins to believe that everything is here on the forum, now... I'm really impressed sometimes on all that has been accumulated here.


For the edges, it depends on which edge.
For pants, inside the leg, you want something very slim, as any bulk will be feeled. So the edges are finished with overcast stitch, either by hand (a very good exercice to learn to use thimble and needle), or with a serger (overlock machine). If you do not want to do it by hand (you lazy ! :p ) nor have a serger, you can use a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine, but it is not as good.

All edges that are inside lining are usually left raw, except if cloth frays a lot and you want to keep your inlays and allowances, in which case you overcast them. In a coat not fully lined (half lined, buggy lined...), ends must be finished either by hemming them (as in roll-hemming), or by "dressing them in tape".

Blanket stitch should do the work, I presume, but I've not seen it used in tailoring... yet.

Zigzag shears are sometimes usefull, but not for this (you seriously did not think it could be this easy ! ^_^ ).
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#10 zokiTzar

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 07:36 AM

thanks all for advice, I will try to fix mistakes on next pair of trousers

#11 Sator

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 02:31 PM

First I should say that it is wonderful to see people putting the information on the forum to good use. I think both this and the waistcoat are very impressive for a beginner.

The one little suggestion I have is to increase the rise of the trousers a little more, and giving the waist a bit more ease (especially if they are brace trousers).

The tummy is pushing itself up over the top of the trousers, forcing the front of the waistband downwards:

Posted Image

This may be contributing to the formation of the drags at the front of the trousers.

#12 zokiTzar

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 03:47 PM

thanks sator
they are quite loose around waist so I will try wearing them higher
as all rtw trousers I have don't come this high and mostly i wear them with belt under belly
this is totally new feel and look and it needs time to get used, although it feels much more comfortable without belt
as for the forum I cant praise it enough , it is priceless :)
thanks for running it

#13 greger

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 07:21 PM

Those are really nice trousers.
They seem pulled up to high and the legs are to long.
The front crease seems to far out at the top.
Just a guess but I think the back fork is to short and the front to long or maybe short.
With the waist loose around the waist it would look much better.
Another detail is to learn how to cut and sew for "dress".

The zig-zag shears are called pinks, which are fine for cutting coat linings.



#14 jukes

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:24 AM

Nice work, the pockets sit nicely, no diagonal creases at the back of the leg.
As been said, more length needed on the fronts to get over your stomach(diagonal lines) if you pull the waistband up above the fly with your fingers, those creases will disappear. Apart from that these are bloody good for a first attempt.

#15 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 08:55 PM

The traditional front crease goes in the other direction.
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#16 Schneidergott

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 04:03 AM

The traditional front crease goes in the other direction.



It's bespoke, so he can have them any way he likes... :thumbsup:

Really nice job, I've seen worse from professionals. Much worse, actually!

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#17 zokiTzar

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 06:37 AM

Thank you everybody for views and comments
I will try to fix all mistakes on this and new work
I am very thankful for critique and encouragement from all
hope to have time to post something new soon

one question though
how would you convert pleated pattern like mine in no pleat flat front
do I just cut the pleat width strip or wedge shape in the direction of straight grain downwards? and glue the front back?

#18 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 10:21 AM

But still bespoke should be traditional and the crease goes in the other direction.
But if you like it that way... another tailor will see its not traditional and think its a mistake.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com




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