A wrote a long post, in reply to this and it seems to be hiding in the luminiferous ether out there somewhere and perhaps just as well. No one likes a smart-ass!
So with the risk of being mildly disliked......
Straightening and Crookening..... origins according to JP Thornton's International system of garment cutting 1st edition 1893 page 343 , no one knows and probably from pre- educational times.
Like a lot of tailoring terms, they are old and probably there are better words, fork for instance surely that is antiquated but the purpose of language is to be understood and all understand what this refers to.
The best definition of Straightening and Crookening I have seen to date is in JP Thorntons first edition, second edition 1894 is a much smaller book.
(Perhaps this has already been scanned by someone and posted?) Even here though JP calls to cutters to come up with a better understood term.
Straightening and Crookening is all to do with the neck point. The effects of it are dramatic on a coat and the fact that it has very little to do with the back of a coat is why it is so important to get at least a vague understanding of it. I have not heard of a better term to cover this to date.
The trousers in question, the balance is definitely wrong. But who knows the poster could be standing more erect than normal for the photograph. The issue with the trouser is balance. One could argue that a trouser is tight and I think the fork is, but that is fashion, so virtually every trouser out there is tight somewhere.
The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier 1st and 2nd editions 1928-1933 page 125 under the heading of "Straightness and Crookedness, or the Location of the neck point" " There is nothing which has caused so much discussion in the tailoring trade as the position of the neck point"
In later editions 1949 and50( not sure about 3rd but would most likely be on either page ref) page 21-23
Several tailor and Cutters from the late 1940's through to the 1960's mention the difficulty of the neck point.
a straight coat is much harder to fit in my opinion, whereas a crooked coat hides much, but never fits anyone well.
I can understand why Mr King is so against the term. It is difficult to quantify but there is nothing better.
The fact that modern publications don't mention it...I did say speaks volumes in my lost post, but I think because they are attempting to teach on mass, to mention it makes the subject matter harder and perhaps for the student too difficult. Who knows.
Even after years in the trade, it can still be difficult to ascertain whether the "particular balance" is a case of front balance or straightening or crookening. How do you put to paper something that is theory and experience and eye. Something that you are unlikely to learn unless taught by another and have their experience imparted with theory and molded over years of practice. That is why there is an art to tailoring and why it is also important to get the theory base. Tailoring is cause and effect and compromise. The alteration I have proposed which is approximate will make the trouser look better but when the wearer strides out the trouser will not be as comfortable. Compromise! This problem as I said previously need to be sorted out at the fitting stage and at this risk of becoming public enemy #1 aside from easing the fork, and the other idea of clearing the seat out which will only serve to smudge the problem a little, no other solution will work at this stage other than loosening the buttocks a little to stand less on the trousers.
Perhaps if there is a Savile Row cutter who peruses this discussion they could give their explanation of straightening and crookening, otherwise the reference material I have suggested is the best way to experiment. I would recommend to any budding coat makers that they try straightening a coat and have a look at the vast difference 1/4 inch will do it. Once of the big things if you go through with it is to strongly damp and dry shrink the back arm scye and then stay it with some holland linen tape.
I hope this adds to this discussion positively and that my other post does not show up, but hope this one does as I am a very slow typist.
Preston and Maurice