Rundschau Women's Trouser Draft
Posted 28 April 2014 - 01:27 PM
- tailleuse likes this
Posted 28 April 2014 - 07:12 PM
A ladies draft does not differ much the trouser sits just tighter and closer to the body.
You can take the gent's draft. Fill in instead 2.5 cm (s-s5) when drafting the CB seat seam 4 cm (average, 3 for round butt, 5 for big hip). The front trouser (without pleats) is 1/4 hip - 1cm (+ seam) (b-B1). You do the center of the back trouser (m) with 2 cm instead of 1 cm. The hip ease at back is 1/4 hip + 1 cm (+ seam.) The + seam is if you follow the gents draft on this page.
- pfaff260, tailleuse, jeffrey2117 and 1 other like this
Posted 30 April 2014 - 05:29 AM
Women also have bigger hip bow and a different Spaltdurchmesser calculation.
You had better find an original women trouser construction to see the differences.
- tailleuse and mochreach like this
Posted 30 April 2014 - 06:08 AM
No, the Spaltdurchmesser is (in my opion) the same calculation as with the gent's. It is Hip/4 - (4 to 6) cm, depends on body type as in gents. And the hip bow is derived from distance hip to waist. It s more with ladies but that does not change the draft in itself.
The woman's draft from Rundschau is in my opinion old fashioned. I use the more modern (Blush: it is the gents without seam allowance) and an angle for the CB-seat -seam; I can give here exactly the diameter I want.
Edited by posaune, 30 April 2014 - 06:09 AM.
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