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How do I become an advanced apprentice?


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#1 Nigel

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Posted 02 March 2017 - 09:42 PM

I am currently enrolled on a tailoring course at Morley College in London.  Over a period of 11 weeks we are learning to make a coat to a standard pattern but using bespoke techniques including the use of goat hair and horsehair canvases for the fronts, pad stitching of lapels etc (we are, at this stage, learning to make rather than fit).  Before enrolling, I had completed three pairs of trousers, one pair of knicker breeches, four shirts and one waistcoat/vest, all from drafts I had prepared and worked on myself.  

 

My work on pattern drafting and trying to fit these garments has given me an understanding of some of the subtleties of fit and balance - for example I have found that my own posture is over-erect and verging on the corpulent, that I have prominent calves and thighs and that my left shoulder is lower than my right, and I have worked out what adjustments these require.

 

I realise I still have a lot to learn but my ambition is, eventually, to be able to make all the components for a three piece suit.  You may not consider me to be ready yet to be promoted on this forum, but I would like to know what I need to aim for.



#2 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 02:30 PM

You on your own. Buy all the books you can get and learn on your own. It is a long way. Reinvent tailoring on your own. You can make it. If you would speak German it would be very much easier for you because we have more up to date books.


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#3 Terri

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 11:08 PM

I believe Nigel is talking about his status on this website so he has access and can comment on various forums.
I think Sator or possibly a moderator in his stead can upgrade you so try pm to get in touch with them.
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#4 Schneidergott

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 02:20 AM

Only Sator can give a status.


"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

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#5 Henry Hall

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 02:28 AM

When was the last time someone was actually promoted? Before or after the Iraq war? (second one of course, I don't want to exaggerate..)


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#6 Philipdep

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 06:47 AM

Only Sator can give a status.

 

Is there any other way to be promoted? I applied a month ago, and my questions do not fall under the "Basic Apprentice Forum".



#7 Schneidergott

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 05:48 PM

 

Is there any other way to be promoted? I applied a month ago, and my questions do not fall under the "Basic Apprentice Forum".

 

Sorry, no. None of the moderators have the powers to do it.


"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#8 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 11:58 AM

Two Grants on the table and I show you how to cut and make trousers at least. I just have time now in Houston.


Edited by Der Zuschneider, 10 March 2017 - 12:03 PM.

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#9 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 11 March 2017 - 11:22 AM

I think you mean "Gorillas" DZ


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Me zo ganet e-kreiz ar mor 
Teir leo er-maez


#10 Nigel

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 07:40 PM

In truth I have always felt a bit like Groucho Marx - any club that agrees to let me join immediately loses much of its appeal.  I am off to look at cloth today for my next coat project.


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#11 LuKas02

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Posted 17 March 2017 - 10:34 AM

There is not so much of a secret Nigel. You have to work, work, work. Dedicate yourself to the art.

 

But no worries, results will come. I learnt the trade by self-tuition, sewing 14 to 15 hours a day, 7 days a week for 3 years. Now I have my own business and satisfied customers even I still don't see myself as a master.
I still sew 4 to 6 hours a day and my whole saturdays and I keep improving. Becoming a shokunin is not a sprint but a long-distance race, a way of life.


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#12 jeffrey2117

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Posted 22 March 2017 - 03:34 AM

I am currently enrolled on a tailoring course at Morley College in London.  Over a period of 11 weeks we are learning to make a coat to a standard pattern but using bespoke techniques including the use of goat hair and horsehair canvases for the fronts, pad stitching of lapels etc (we are, at this stage, learning to make rather than fit).  Before enrolling, I had completed three pairs of trousers, one pair of knicker breeches, four shirts and one waistcoat/vest, all from drafts I had prepared and worked on myself.  

 

My work on pattern drafting and trying to fit these garments has given me an understanding of some of the subtleties of fit and balance - for example I have found that my own posture is over-erect and verging on the corpulent, that I have prominent calves and thighs and that my left shoulder is lower than my right, and I have worked out what adjustments these require.

 

I realise I still have a lot to learn but my ambition is, eventually, to be able to make all the components for a three piece suit.  You may not consider me to be ready yet to be promoted on this forum, but I would like to know what I need to aim for.

Hello Nigel,

 

    Does your course also present alterations of garments so that you will know how to make corrections to patterns or garments you are fitting?

 

Regard

 

Jeffrey2117


"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".

#13 theartoftea

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Posted 15 April 2017 - 08:45 AM

Tell me how do you become a tailor in NYC and are there any women tailors?  



#14 Steelmillal

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Posted 15 April 2017 - 07:18 PM

Go with hat in hand to Greenfield in Brooklyn. Start at bottom, work up. Further, what has been presented on the forum previously is enough to informally get you started. Just apply NY never-say-die grit and attitude and dive in.
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#15 Nigel

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Posted 16 April 2017 - 04:57 PM

Hello Nigel,

 

    Does your course also present alterations of garments so that you will know how to make corrections to patterns or garments you are fitting?

 

Regard

 

Jeffrey2117

 

 

The course I have just finished was to make a jacket, not draft or fit one.  The tutor was quite clear that for a first jacket there is enough to do learn the construction techniques without being districted by the niceties of fitting.  Students attending the course for a second time were working on their own drafts.






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