Take a look at your folds. Most of them start at the sideseam. Let's start with the first right side view. We look from side seam: The back: under the armhole up to shoulder. A big wad at CB at waist level and the fabic is pulled to the behind and it sits there. Sideseam is pulled too.
The front: The armhole pulls up as in back, a big fold from hip to the bust point and same smaller folds going up to belly start and end of the belly mountain. The CF button stand stands away from body and the hem is pulled up.
your conclusion is right the balance is lacking.
Why? Because you push your belly in front (need more length and width) and at the same time your behind out (needs less length but more width),it is your posture - your hips are doing this.
Taking out 3 cm in back now cleaned the CB wad in back - but the armhole got worser. The fabric is released from the bum. The CB falls straight now as it should. Side seam runs better.
So you are on the right track. You have shortened the length and move the width up.
Everybody is doing alterations as they are used too.
I would start with pinning out a wedge with 1.5 at CB to nothing at armhole at the back and open he front with 1.5 cm at first. (You cut across and set in a piece of fabric but the upper part is pinned for further alteration). Now you make pics - you pin again let out or take in till it is nearly good.
The second alteration concerns your belly posture, when you look from the side the belly is before the bust - maybe 1.5 cm - which means you must add fabric at waist level and get more length for it. As your bust needs more fabric too - you can try to do a larger bust circ. I guess this maybe a case where to do or not to do. This means put about 1-2 cm more in the Bb - and you will get more front waist-hip too. And do add 1 cm at hip at each sideseam. You can pin that out later if it is too much.
ah forgot : snip little snips at the buttom of the armholes till the stress is release to get the right Rh
Edited by posaune, Yesterday, 07:38 PM.