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Review my shirt


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#37 Terri

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Posted 01 October 2019 - 10:30 PM

11cm of ease in the full chest is really quite snug. You need to be able to move in it!


Exactly! It is a shirt, not a fitted bodice.
The tighter you make a shirt the more you need shaping to contour to the body, and a typical shirt does not have the kind of darting for that.
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#38 Newbie

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Posted 04 October 2019 - 05:47 AM

So here is an update.
Concerning the 11cm ease at the chest, it is what the draft provides when I go for the fitted (schmal) version. 
 
Since greger pointed out, that the armhole seems to be not sitting right and the armhole was rather snug anyway I changed the balance by just adding 2,5 cm along the whole width and pinned away only 1cm at the back. I think I'm getting closer now. The balance seems right. I pinned the right shoulder since it is more sloped then the left and it seems to resolve the issue with the CF and the right hip. Posaune is of course right, he seems to have scoliosis (he even told me so) but the way it drapes now I'm not sure if I must account for that. Also as Posaune pointed out rather early in the thread, the left shoulder is a little longer then the right. By measure it is only 0,3cm so I was wondering if I should adjust to that as well or just leave it be.
 
The front picture is a little deceiving since he seems to lean to the left a little bit.
The neckhole seems to be crooked, but since I only pinned the shoulder, the neckhole will be evened out when I make the right adjustment to the shoulder as discussed in my other thread before.
Finally I think the neckhole in the back sits too low, given I have a seam allowance of about 0,7cm all around.

url="https://ibb.co/0VWLW7w"]IMG-20191003-202507.jpg[/url]
 
IMG-20191003-202524.jpg
 
IMG-20191003-202602.jpg
 
IMG-20191003-202541.jpg

Edited by Newbie, 04 October 2019 - 05:52 PM.


#39 peterle

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Posted 04 October 2019 - 10:17 PM

I see a few issues:

 

-The button stand is slanted and not vertical. I think this is, because you pulled up the right side with the shoulder alteration. This also lifts the shirt from the protruding hip, but this is not a good solution. It will look terrible with striped fabric or even just a edge stitched buttonhole stand.

- The neckhole is also uneven. It sits quite good on the right side but on the left it is too far away from the neck.

-BTW: in this picture set it seems the left shoulder is the lower one, in the other it was the right shoulder. Strangely enough the right hip is yet the protruding one. Under this circumstances i´m not sure wether it is a good idea to do a hanging shoulder alteration at all.Probably it is better just to create some room for the right hip in the side seam. To help your client to keep a natural posture while photographing, distract his attention with a chat, a runnig TV or similar things. Otherwise he will always make some sort of "Mirror posing". It is also important, that in the fitting you always care for the right position of the CB/neck point. It has to lie on the 7th vertebra, wich is the protruding one.

 

- It seems the relativity between back and front balance ist ok, but they both swing away from the body. That´s a sign both are too short. That means your armholes are not deep enough and are pushed down. Let the 1cm at the back out and add another one to the front and look what happens.


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#40 Newbie

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Posted 05 October 2019 - 07:22 AM

Thanks Peterle. I will try to make another picture of the front since I am convinced the angle comes from him leaning sideways, which isn't a postural issue. Same might be true for the shoulder slope, since I'm rather sure his right side hangs a little more.

Just to be sure: to make room for the protruding hip means to let out the side seam. Wouldn,t that change the circumference of the armscye? Or should I just add some more room at the bottom?

#41 peterle

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Posted 05 October 2019 - 06:08 PM

yes, just at the bottom.



#42 Newbie

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Posted 12 October 2019 - 09:51 PM

So here is the current state of the bodice.

 

As peterle advised, I added more length to the front to adjust the balance without shorten the armhole. Eventually I did so at an angle because the front armhole seemed to be too large otherwise and it was pulling down on the back neckhole. Overall the balance seems right now, and the flairing of the bottom decreased.

I removed the pinning on the right shoulder, because I'm not sure if any chance is necessary there. I will add two pictures of the front now to give you more information on how the stance is affecting the overall look of the trial shirt. 

The neckhole is still a bit crooked, I'm just not sure which side I should alter.

 

IMG-20191012-132221.jpg

 

IMG-20191012-132729.jpg

 

IMG-20191012-132820.jpg

 

IMG-20191012-132831.jpg

 

IMG-20191012-132851.jpg



#43 Terri

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Posted 12 October 2019 - 11:43 PM

One thing that I have seen that has not been addressed is the level of the underarm. It seems more of a visible issue in the back.
It is pushing up against the body.
I would clip the underarm there until the fabric hangs better. You will probably have to increase the horizontal dart in the yoke position, and redraw the armhole.




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