Posted 31 July 2012 - 03:47 PM
In my most humble of opinions on books I give the following:
For those wishing a good solid foundation in classic English tailoring, nothing beats the whife/Dellafera "Art of Garment Making" with Liberty's 1950's edition of "Practical Tailoring". This is more than enough, in addition to this forum, to have a good grounding in this style.
For those that want to learn American methods or Ivy style Look no further than Stanley's books
If you are one who would like to expand your knowledge of single needle (machine) American tailoring Poulin is a great resource.
Others may disagree, but I believe if you stick with one method of making up as you learn you can practice and master these techniques to where they become second nature. Once this is done then you may reach out. Too many times beginners overload themselves and we see from time to time someone saying "Whife does this, Poulin does that and cabrera does it all backwards, which is the right way" Simple answer? All of them!
Cabrera's work was meant for a basic tailoring course at FIT. Stanley's books were for a trade school. Whife/Dellafrea was for the T&C Academy and I believe Practical Tailoring by Liberty was designed for use at the Polytechnic in London. So you see all were used as teaching aids in addition to hands on lessons provided by the faculty at these schools. Sometimes being taught by the authors themselves. So now what me must realise is that we do not have this luxury to pop down to the respected school to inquire upon the arthors. So find a method of workmanship you wish to pursue, then if you get caught in a position you do not quite understand then take a look at the alternative books I mention in that vein of methodology. For example Dellfrea could not describe how to make side pockets in a convincing way, whife does a better job, but does lack some detail that could leave the student wondering if the pocket really is properly done though it is in. So Liberty to the rescue! Liberty describes how to put in side pockets in much more detail. In fact, the photos in Whifes AGM are from a series of pocket making that Liberty wrote in the T&C. Same method, three different authors take and only one could articulately present it to a student via the written word.
All of these works are a steal in pricing. In my opinion Mr. Hosteks works stand out in how detailed they are and the in text alternatives make life a little simpler for those wishing to go step by step with open book.
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!