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#37 benjaminh

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 10:09 AM

I think I'm going to end up going with an asymmetric pattern. Posaune very kindly put together the below picture, which clearly shows the difference between my right side (left of picture) and my left side (right of picture). 

 

32kxedh7d722my64g.jpg

 

I suppose the first modification I should do to address this issue is to just increase the right shoulder angle? 

 

Peterle, thanks for weighing in here. I didn't realise that the folds above the bustline are fresh, but now that I go back, I see that they have been there before as you say. I'll make your suggested modification and see how it goes.



#38 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 10:20 AM

I never met a symmetrical person yet. :)


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Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#39 benjaminh

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 10:45 AM

I never met a symmetrical person yet. :)

 

Nor have I; I never realised things like this until I started sewing my own clothes recently. Now I notice fit problems, assymetry, etc. wherever I go...


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#40 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 20 June 2018 - 06:13 PM

It has been a big learning curve for me too.  Certainly worth it though.

 

:)


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#41 peterle

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Posted 21 June 2018 - 11:05 PM

Do alterations step by step, otherwise You can´t say wich one was effective.

 

When You alter the right shoulder, you should shift downwards the whole armhole, not just altering the shoulder slope. just shift the whole armhole line downwards - let´s say for 1,5cm- and reconnect the shoulder tips with the neckhole tips. (to find the correct amount, pinning would be the easy way).

 

The right hip could be a tad wider as well. CF and CB are both pulled towards the right hip at the moment. (you can widen the left hip also when you want to keep it symmetric)



#42 benjaminh

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 01:41 PM

OK, I have just slid the fronts away from the neck about .75cm (or a little more) in the below pictures. I found that this modification effectively widened the front, and removed the need for the extra material at CF. The folds seemed to be reduced when the CF was returned to it's original state. However, I'm posting this first pic with the added width at CF:

 

qi8hlhds5zxdqhi4g.jpg

 

Here are the rest without any extra width at CF:

 

ddn3hou70aru9b44g.jpg

445j5vqi59zeb5g4g.jpg

3v17y8mqdo8e4z64g.jpg

k0hrd6d7y5c76z04g.jpg



#43 peterle

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 06:38 PM

I thought that the front widening can eventually be removed .

 

BUT: you shifted the right front to the wrong side! It also should be shifted towards the center front. I think the big folds at the back yoke are caused by this.



#44 benjaminh

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 08:42 AM

BUT: you shifted the right front to the wrong side! It also should be shifted towards the center front. I think the big folds at the back yoke are caused by this.

 

How right you are; I'm not sure how I managed to mix that one up   :blush:

 

I'll fix that tonight.


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#45 benjaminh

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 10:54 AM

Here we go:

With ~1.5cm added width at CF:

cqy967f4i3tm2b94g.jpg

nk6mvd24z4a66dm4g.jpg

zz4p40o5j762sdp4g.jpg

ezdj6p1hbeg66jt4g.jpg

 

Without added width at CF: 

jbyi28fr74f3bex4g.jpg

u0ciad5xfmdly6x4g.jpg

i2aaebaa8w2vc3b4g.jpg

87napqp3fk8b8vx4g.jpg

 

Now with the right shoulder properly shifted towards CF, I definitely think the added width is necessary.



#46 peterle

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Posted 26 June 2018 - 11:36 PM

The wider one is better.

The fold at the right shoulder did not disappear and I think, lowering the armhole will not remove it also. But try it.

 

I think it is caused by your right shoulder, wich is not only hanging but also is much wider forward than the left one. (compare posaune´s compilation). My try would be to let out the right back shoulder seam for about 1-1,5cm (the right  back shoulder angle will get shallower)  and -to compensate the additional armhole length- increasing the back dart for the same amount. This should get the right shoulder point more forward.



#47 benjaminh

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Posted 27 June 2018 - 10:33 AM

I was playing around with pinning yesterday and came up with the result below. I found that the folds above the bust can be eliminated if I pivot the fronts closer together at CF (reducing front width). The same effect would be achieved if I used posaune's method of pivoting out the parts of the front to gain width, rather than just add it at CF. I still have some minor folds at the hip though, as well as some more serious ones in the back yoke area. Are the back yoke folds caused just by a poor/too small neckline?

 

3jk1v9zwlcr39cx4g.jpg

05ghh1jynhjorix4g.jpg

bklq7o6x1saiq9y4g.jpg

566rbmgsv9le4lz4g.jpg

tnv2st7s6ydtj754g.jpg



#48 benjaminh

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Posted 27 June 2018 - 10:34 AM

I think it is caused by your right shoulder, wich is not only hanging but also is much wider forward than the left one. (compare posaune´s compilation). My try would be to let out the right back shoulder seam for about 1-1,5cm (the right  back shoulder angle will get shallower)  and -to compensate the additional armhole length- increasing the back dart for the same amount. This should get the right shoulder point more forward.

 

Do you think this is still necessary, or was my solution in the above post satisfactory?



#49 mhoyle

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Posted 30 June 2018 - 07:53 AM

 (hAe point is about 1/4 Rh up from bust line, end of the back armhole curve) Armhole stitching reaches into the arm. It should run in the crease. I think it is about 1- 1.5 cm.

Pin out right side from the dart tip till heA from 0 to 1.5 cm and then straight down1.5 cm. If better do the left side too- but be carefull it might be different there. Then it maybe we have to add this amount to the front , especially around hip.

 

 

Hi,

 

Since I also used the Rundschau method I'm reading this thread closely. The one thig I don't quite understand is what you mean with the dart tip.

Is this the tip of the dart that is put in the back, or is it the dart between the yoke and the back? 

Since Benjamin didn't use a yoke, nor a dart in the back I was wondering which dart you were talking about?



#50 benjaminh

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Posted 30 June 2018 - 09:58 AM



 

Hi,

 

Since I also used the Rundschau method I'm reading this thread closely. The one thig I don't quite understand is what you mean with the dart tip.

Is this the tip of the dart that is put in the back, or is it the dart between the yoke and the back? 

Since Benjamin didn't use a yoke, nor a dart in the back I was wondering which dart you were talking about?

 

The dart tip refers to the end of the horizontal dart on the back. It is located on the line that will become the bottom of the yoke, when that is added eventually. 

 

76dol7gi77mm4wp4g.jpg


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#51 mhoyle

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Posted 30 June 2018 - 04:04 PM

Perfect, That's what I already thought!

 

 

Thanks!



#52 posaune

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Posted 30 June 2018 - 05:24 PM

Hi Benjaminh,

I'm back. Well the situaton has not improved much. Seeing all those pics I see the shirt is shifting around on your body. It has no secure place to hang from.

As you assumed right it might have to do with the neck.

My first question is: Do you have a helper? Someone who can stick a pin into fabric and not in you?

The quickest way to a better fit would be a pinning new the shoulder seams and getting a fitted neck hole.

 

When we look at your last back pic we see some folds across the back neck - shoulders and more at the right side. (And some bubbles - I do not know where they come from.) Those folds normally happens when there is too much fabric and because there is a Hindrance the fabric can not spread and release the volume (in German Stauchfalten translated: word to word  compressed folds). They are not like the pulling folds (german. Stressfalten) when fabric is needed. In your case it means the fabric can't climb up the neck because of your stay stitching.

 

Now first clip into the the back neck stay stitching first at right side. Put the shirt on. Your helper should now pin the shirt at bust level at right side front and back. Open the right shoulder seam. And remove pin at the back. With the whole hand he should stretch out the back from up from shoulderblade to shoulder and to armhole and from neck to shoulder. Pin and look.  As often rinse and repeat till the shirt back looks nice and tidy and CB is vertical and the Bustline horizontal . With chalk mark the back neckhole. (The CB point is a bit over the 7. Vertebrae. It runs along the valley. (If not sure - As I stated before use a thread closed to a circle with a weight - it works!)) He should clip the neck now down  to the chalk line on several places. Secure - if possible - with a pin near shoulder of at the bust line again. Now unpick the front pin and direct the front part so that the CF falls absolutley vertical. And pin again back. Look at side seam - it can be that it has swung out a bit to the front. If this is the case you have to open it too. And pin it close again letting out the amount of fabric from front pattern it needs. Now procceed back to shoulder again.

The same pocedure as in back. It can be the case that the front neck will not lay flash with the back shoulder (and vice versa).

Move the fabric till it lay there nicely flat. Pin it over the back shoulder s.a. always adjusting. Clip into front neck till it is laying at the base of the front neck. Chalk the base.

Remove the pins at bust line and look if it stays. Do it then on the left side.

This is something you need a helper for.

And when he are at it: he should check the armpit.  If the bustline is the indicator for the Rh then the armhole is too high in my opinion. If you have 2 cm Z for Rh in your draft you should find it there. Use your fingers to check.

 

lg posaune


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#53 benjaminh

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Posted 01 July 2018 - 06:51 AM



The CB point is a bit over the 7. Vertebrae.

 

Great to have you back posaune. I didn't have a helper available this morning, but I did what I could using the very helpful piece of information above. The back neckline needed to be dropped over 2cm. Here are some pictures with the neckline modified, and the folds mainly gone. I'm going to use your string with a weight method later on.

yrcs8ufih3ataqw4g.jpg

3w7o7opyq6lrs2c4g.jpg

21v2d6zivnzb9rq4g.jpg

arck3pbkrp7470v4g.jpg



#54 benjaminh

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Posted 05 July 2018 - 09:48 AM

I think that the left side is good now; do you guys see any remaining issues? 

 

I'd now like to apply the lessening in width above the bust line that I've pinned out at CF. Would the modification I've drawn in the image below properly do that? The black is the original shirt front, the red the modification to reduce width, and the blue the redrawn shoulder and armscye.j4zfhtcjy9v5acu4g.jpg






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