The Sinclair Modifications
I am putting together what I am calling the Sinclair Modifications to this pattern. Anthony Sinclair was the tailor for Sean Connery for his James Bond roles in the 1960s and who referred to his style as Conduit Cut. I have culled some of these changes from what I have reconstructed from a putative Sinclair-Conduit Cut lounge coat cutting system. I have taken these changes from his system for cutting an overcoat
. How Anthony Sinclair really drafted lounges, who knows (I suspect he may not have dropped the front depth of armscye by 5/8"), but irrespective of this I like these modifications and that is the main reason for suggesting them.
1. Move top of centre back in from 0-7 by 1/4"
2. Change formula for back neck from 7-8 to 1/6th working scale + 5/8"
3. To find the back neck point extend up 8-9 1 1/4"
4. Extend the line from 7-8 across so that reaches over the front panel
5. Square up from the equivalent of point 20 in the following diagram to find point 27 (intersects with line extended from 7-8 ):
6. Point 28 is 1/4" below 27
7. Drop down 5/8" below the back depth of scye line to find the front base of armscye. This makes the formula for the front depth of scye = back depth of scye + 1/4". This is still quite a short front balance.
This concludes the Sinclair Modifications.Additional Modifications
The first additional modification is this:
Draw a front of scye line vertically up from the chest line. Make sure it just touches the front of the armscye. Control the neckpoint so that it is located 1/5 chest scale + 3/8"
from the front of scye line, measuring along the chest construction line.
This helps to eliminate the rather messy loss of control of the neckpoint from the ad lib scooping out of the front of scye that Chaudhry introduced to the T&C system. He also fails to adjust his formula for finding the neckpoint for 3/8" seam allowances. These two elements result in a degree of crookedness that resembles a 1930s draft. The above correct helps to eliminate this factor.
The 1/5 chest scale + 3/8" formula arises because the shoulder seam has been advanced forward a little. It is also to makes room for the stretching of the front neck by ironwork to make room for the shoulder bone, and this will eliminate the 3/8" straightening. It makes it important that you do NOT stretch the front of armscye or allow the front of scye to accidentally stretch as the coat is made up. Instead, shrink well around the base of scye and draw in with tape to prevent stretching. Stretch 3/8" at the front of neck like this:
Push the extra length you form around across towards the shoulder, stretching the shoulder gently as you do this, forcing the excess length formed to the shoulder point. Finally, work the excess length to its final resting point at the the front of armscye.
This will also help stripes to run straighter at the shoulder.
The next modification I would suggest is add an Add a Gap of about 1" at the following point:
This will stop the side body and front panel from overlapping.
You will need to add this 1" to the following points:
X-23: add 1"
24-X" add 1"
Lastly, control the amount of waist suppression from the front dart in the following manner:
Make cuts in the chest as shown. The amount the front dart should open at the pocket level is between 5/8" to 1" maximum - 5/8" will be enough for many figures. To achieve this, open up the cuts in the chest area as shown. In this example, the cuts are opened up 1/8". This crookening dart throws length to the fronts, so to compensate add the same amount, in this case 1/8", to the back balance.
If you do not wish to deepen the depth of armscye, you can also reduce the front balance by about 1/8", and advance the neckpoint forwards the same amount: