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trouser pattern cut


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#1 Queenelle153

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 02:58 AM

hello everyone,

 

i am a beginning tailor , trying to focus on menswear.please would like to know the dangers of cutting a trouser pattern with the creases in the leg cut on the crosswise grain of the fabric instead of the grainline ;assuming all other proper procedures of trouser cut are judiously followed


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#2 Henry Hall

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Posted 14 January 2019 - 03:17 AM

The general wisdom is that there is minimal give on the warp and more on the weft (crosswise) and lengths cut on the weft could (will) twist out of shape. You certainly don't want your waistband cut on the weft because it needs to keep its shape and tension.


Edited by Henry Hall, 14 January 2019 - 03:17 AM.

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#3 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 02:23 PM

You probably could do it but it would be funny hanging, maybe. Try it with cheap fabric and check it out yourself if you like it.


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#4 greger

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Posted 16 January 2019 - 06:23 PM

I did it once with denim. Woof yarns are weak. With all the weight hanging on them they didn't last long. Another problem is stretch. The hem line over a short time became wavy. It was a waste of time making them.

 

In cloth warp yarns are pull tight many time pulling looseness out of them during the weaving. They are a better choice of fibers than weft. Weft yarns are not pulled tight and have a bit of stretch in them, which is good for some parts of the garments. And, of course, bias has the most stretch.


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