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Pattern Differences or Ironwork linen/cotton vs wool

Trousers vest pattern draft ironwork cotton wool linen

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#1 HautenDandy

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Posted 02 May 2017 - 04:26 PM

I wanted to start a thread, as I have not found it else where, about the differences in making linen and cotton or paper thin wool(tropical, I have heard it doesnt iron as well as thicker wool).

 

My question is what do you do differently.

 

I imagine its added lengths to the pattern in certain areas, then eased while sewing?

 

What are the common practices that wouldnt be obvious?

 

 


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#2 jeffrey2117

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Posted 02 May 2017 - 10:14 PM

I wanted to start a thread, as I have not found it else where, about the differences in making linen and cotton or paper thin wool(tropical, I have heard it doesnt iron as well as thicker wool).

 

My question is what do you do differently.

 

I imagine its added lengths to the pattern in certain areas, then eased while sewing?

 

What are the common practices that wouldnt be obvious?

 

 

 

Hello Hautendandy,

 

   The linen is a bit more difficult to work, but one thing I usually do when working with Linen cloth garments is to make length a bit longer on the arms and trouser length for certain.  Also, for trousers, I usually make a cuffed hem a bit wider than normally do, using the additional weight to help keep the trousers legs from riding up too much during wear.  I also for cotton and Linen trousers make the knees a bit wider.

 

 

Regard

 

Jeffrey2117


Edited by jeffrey2117, 03 May 2017 - 02:14 AM.

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#3 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 08:30 AM

I would cut out 1m long strip and wash it and see how short it will become.


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#4 posaune

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 06:43 PM

Hi Jeffrey
my experience with linen is that it can growth badly during wearing. Even high quality.
I like a blend with soie or cotton more.
I always sew a "Nahtband (seam tape??)" in the crotch seam to prevent to be saggy.
As it is true about the folds consuming length and the "ausbeulen (baggyness??)" at knee and elbow if too tight
the drape of linen is wonderful. To do the cuffs wider to support this is a good tip, thank you.
With trousers you can do ironwork at back inseam and back crotch. And sew it up because it springs back.
You can take in the armholes a bit (secured too with nahtband) and ease in the back shoulder (a bit).
For the bust you can do a dart at the front neck which is hidden under the lapel.
The thin wool fabrics are too a challenge - they spring back.
lg
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#5 peterle

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 07:07 PM

Because these materials don´t ironwork, easing in will have it´s limits especially tighter weaves. Sometimes you have to consider to do a dart instead of easing in. For example a shoulder dart for a round back.

Also doing a two part collar for a jacket would be a good idea.

Avoid too tight cuts for linnen. It doesn´t like pulling and you can end up with a "grinning" seam.

 

Rundschau patterns tells us to use a not too crooked  front shoulder for summer fabrics. Posaunes tips of the lapel dart and pulling in the armhole (with chain stitch) can help to form a nice chest, but a little blousiness at the front armhole can be accepted in these materials.


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Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Trousers, vest, pattern, draft, ironwork, cotton, wool, linen

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