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Kimono-Coat (GDR Cutting System)


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#1 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 01:10 AM

I just wanted to show you an example how in the GDR apprentices had to learn cutting in school. The Zentrale Fachbeirat improved the Rundschausystem until 1989.
The Rundschausystem cannot be recognized anymore. Tailor apprentices in the former GDR almost had to be mathematician. GDR tailors who were able to use that system were able to make coats almost without fitting, just looking if the sleeves were long enough. Tailor apprentices in the former GDR had no easy life to learn the trade.

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Edited by Der Zuschneider, 21 January 2012 - 01:47 AM.

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#2 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 01:19 AM

I just wanted to show you an example how in the GDR apprentices had to learn cutting in school. The Zentrale Fachbeirat improved the Rundschausystem until 1989.
The Rundschausystem cannot be recognized anymore. Tailor apprentices in the former GDR almost had to be mathematician. GDR tailors who were able to use that system were able to make coats almost without fitting, just looking if the sleeves were long enough. Tailor apprentices in the former GDR had no easy life to learn the trade.

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Mein Gott!!! (and I don't speak or understand German)

This is pattern cutting gone mad. We are not designing buildings or cars! We are trying to cover a movable object with a flexible medium.
How any poor student of pattern cutting can decipher that blueprint and convert it into a nice fashionable garment, beggars belief!

The sooner the bespoke world realise a pattern is only a guide to find the salient points of the figure and the style is more of an artistic contribution, the better for all concerned.

Leave these computer generated images to the wholesale industry, they may have a need for this precision.

#3 Schneidergott

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 06:20 AM

Fashion in the former GDR wasn't changing as fast as it did in the Western world.
So they probably had a decade or so to make such a pattern...:spiteful:

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#4 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 07:21 AM

:LMAO:
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#5 posaune

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 11:23 PM

Weell, it is not so hard as it looks. They used mathematical language and symbols. Once you are used to it it is done in a jiffy.
The apprenticeship and education on the job was examplary in the early GDR.
It became bad and worse with the economic situation.
The GDR provided the wholesalers in the West with clothes - as now does China.

lg
posaune

Edited by posaune, 10 February 2012 - 11:24 PM.


#6 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 18 February 2012 - 10:57 AM

Fashion in the former GDR wasn't changing as fast as it did in the Western world.
So they probably had a decade or so to make such a pattern...:spiteful:


In the same were coats developed, they fitted out of the spot with almost no alteration. The system had to be learned in the apprenticeship or at least to understood.
Behind this system is the Rundschausystem hidden. In the GDR they had the Fachbeirat out of the most knowledgeable master tailors who where funded by the government
and also had their own tailor shops. In 1963 they already improved the Rundschausystem like it is today and still the Rundschausystem has not reached the GDR level.
This so called Einheitssystem was prepared for computer use already. Every point of the cutting system around the body was covered by an accuracy of under 5mm.
The Fachbeirat produced proportions which are still unknown today by the Rundschausystem. In the GDR the tailoring were taught on a high level in the theory.
The system was only taught in the cutting school of Modeinstitut of Berlin and in apprenticeship, there is no book published only loose copies existing.
The system is not handy on the first site but it is not that difficult when you have a complete overview of the Rundschausystem you can handle this GDR system.
East German tailors, there are only a few left, they still use the system as soon as they gone the system is out of reach.
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