Jump to content


Photo

DKNY Spring 2016: Deconstructed Menswear Looks for Women

menswear-inspired womenswear DKNY womens RTW tailoring womens tailoring Spring 2016

  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 tailleuse

tailleuse

    Master

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,059 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling
  • Interests:Tailoring and couture.

Posted 21 October 2015 - 11:57 PM

Here's a link to the DKNY Spring 2016 Collection.  I don't love all the looks, but the literalness of the menswear tailoring references may be interesting for forum members.

 

24.nocrop.w1800.h1330.2x.jpg


Dignity. Always, dignity. (Singin' in the Rain)


#2 eboli

eboli

    Umsie

  • Professional
  • Pip
  • 62 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Wien, Austria
  • Interests:bespoke tailoring

Posted 06 December 2015 - 06:00 PM

While going through the pictures I was thinking: omg, some gay designer who cannot get along with breasts has taken over DKNY! That reminds me of some 1980s Gaultier, only there are women on the catwalk.
And, bamm, there were two guys in the last picture. So I did some browsing and found out that Donna has left the company and LVMH has appointed Osborne and Chow from Public School who had done just one women's wear collection before. And much to my embarrassment Mr. Chow has a wife and kids...

I often wonder why fashion brands promote clothes that only work on very slim long-legged girls. Is it misogyny, is it an antifeminist lashback or is it simply a lack of technical ability to deal with female curves? And why the hell do women buy that nonsense?

Edited by eboli, 06 December 2015 - 06:28 PM.

  • Torry Kratch, cperry and Schneiderfrei like this
www.barbaraboll.com

#3 Schneiderfrei

Schneiderfrei

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 823 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide, Australia
  • Interests:learning and imagination

Posted 07 December 2015 - 12:13 AM

I bet they can't do the hard yards of sizing.


Me zo ganet e-kreiz ar mor 
Teir leo er-maez


#4 tailleuse

tailleuse

    Master

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,059 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling
  • Interests:Tailoring and couture.

Posted 07 December 2015 - 01:33 AM

I often wonder why fashion brands promote clothes that only work on very slim long-legged girls. Is it misogyny, is it an antifeminist lashback or is it simply a lack of technical ability to deal with female curves? And why the hell do women buy that nonsense?

 

You can't judge by the runway. I'm short, not built like a model, and DKNY is my favorite brand. I wouldn't wear any of the looks above because I'm too conservative. Given the world of fashion, their chief purpose is probably to start a conversation.  As someone interested in menswear and tailoring, I do find the translation to women's clothes worth looking at.

 

Another of my favorite designers (to look at) is the English designer Margaret Howell.  Her clothing is somewhat androgynous, but to my mind, still feminine.

 

I don't think the issue is a lack of technical ability, but pressures in the marketplace to make clothes that will fit the largest number of people for the greatest profit.  Add to that the problem that women with pronounced curves need custom fitting or at least special alterations, and women put up with terribly fitting clothes.  If fashions change every six months and women keep buying, what incentive do manufacturers have to offer better clothes?

 

Many women who are tired of poor fit have started to learn how to sew.  Most of them have no idea what's involved because design and sewing have been presented as something you can learn in a weekend.  And fitting is never mentioned.

 

Yes, Donna Karan, the company has been closed and Donna Karan, the designer, has left DKNY. I think she's still heading up one of the more "lifestyle" oriented companies she created.


Edited by tailleuse, 07 December 2015 - 01:37 AM.

  • cperry likes this

Dignity. Always, dignity. (Singin' in the Rain)


#5 greger

greger

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,093 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Washington, USA

Posted 08 December 2015 - 06:30 AM

Only for a season.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users