The Cutter and Tailor: The close buttons double breasted coat. - The Cutter and Tailor

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The close buttons double breasted coat. A great (modern) British classic.

#1 User is offline   carpu65 

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 04:04 AM

I adore the Prince Charles double breasted coats,with the couple of buttons close,and the last couple on the waist and line up with the cut of pockets.
Is smart,clean,neat,and have a wonderfull "military air".
The close buttons double breasted is typically British (in the middle a picture of a Henry Poole DB)

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in Italy this silhouette is unfortunately not followed (compare the cleanliness of HRH'coat with the Panico'DB).


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The close buttons double breasted is contemporary ; infact 30s,40s and 50s double breasted coat was more heavy,and less neat and sharp (see below a British 1950s DB from "Man About Town").

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I think also that this shape is well for many typhes of man,not only for the tall,slender man,because lighten the figure.
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#2 User is offline   carpu65 

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 08:49 AM

More double breasted with close buttons:

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Some early 60s exemple:

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My father in a Pirri double breasted in 1964:

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#3 User is offline   Sator 

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 09:17 AM

View Postcarpu65, on 18 May 2011 - 04:04 AM, said:

in Italy this silhouette is unfortunately not followed


Really? I have been taught by an Italian tailor to reduce the overlap and place the buttons closer together on more slender figures. The reason Charles' buttons are like this is for the same reason.
Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#4 User is offline   carpu65 

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 11:56 AM

View PostSator, on 18 May 2011 - 09:17 AM, said:

Really? I have been taught by an Italian tailor to reduce the overlap and place the buttons closer together on more slender figures. The reason Charles' buttons are like this is for the same reason.


Unfortunately not.
This type of DB in Italy was cut in 60s because in those years the more slender silhouette was popular.
Now i see this only in English DB.
But seems to me that you don't like particularly...
Right?
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#5 User is offline   Sator 

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Posted 18 May 2011 - 04:12 PM

I have no problem with it. The narrowest set buttons on a DB coat I have seen come from an Italian tailor, who left Italy at the end of the 1960s to early '70s. I have heard that the Italians here sometimes do things the old fashioned way, whereas in Italy they have changed things. Who knows?

However, I also like wide set buttons because it has a widening effect. These things are easy to change according to taste and fashion and the figure of the wearer. It would take an apprentice about a minute to change it on a draft. If you feel that narrow set buttons with reduced overlap gives you a slimming effect, it is easy to ask for. This tends to look better when the coat is overall slimmer, with narrow lapels. Sometimes in the 1960s they also cut a narrower chest pocket too.

It is best if you ask for it early on rather than wait for the first fitting. However, you can still easily change it at the first fitting.
Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#6 User is offline   Naive Jr 

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 10:17 AM

The DB is beautiful, but your judgments about button position too complex to recognise for non-tailor mentality which needs 1. Reduction to essentials 2. Elimination of any perspective or aspect influencing comparison.
If Charles' jacket is subject, then lack of pocket flap and ticket pocket is factor.
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