47 replies to this topic

[Schneidergott]

Posaune,
thanks for telling us about it.

Do you know if this book is only about cutting, or if there is also chapters on making ?

I don't know this book, but like most of the others it is made from articles published in the Rundschau magazine, so it's mostly drafts (different styles and silhouettes) for various sizes (slim to corpulent).


With a bit of luck there will be an article about shaping in it, maybe some basic instructions about pocket making. But the main purpose of this type of books is cutting.

[posaune]

Hi Paul,
I have ordered and will tell you when the book arrives.
With Rundschau books it is like Schneidergott says it5 is mostly a rehash of the journal. But I do not buy the journal for gents - so there will be something new for me in it. (hope !)
lg
posaune
Here the text (translated mostly by google)

This book contains selected papers from the
Journal RUNDSCHAU FUER INTERNATIONAL HERRENMODE with pants models for various events and figures.
Presented are average variations of the slim size up to XXL belly figure technical features for the best fitting shape with various character deviations up to the custom-made pants for wheelchair drivers.

Basic cuts and style model are shown as cuts for classic trousers, evening pants for cutaway, tuxedo, jeans, Bermuda shorts, overalls, knickerbockers, breeches, knee-breeches, skiing pants, and,jogging pants plus underwear and pajama pants. The development of new craetions inspired a variety of pocket shapes and seam laying. Instructions for internal workmanship complement the cut expertise.

Practice-oriented optimal dimensions for body height and inseam are calculated.
The section pattern grading and constructions with seam allowances can be easily adapted to company-specific production conditions, thus is also the traditional manual installation included.

[posaune]

Paul, I have the book now.
They show a lot of cuts for the younger. Refreshing. The oldest is a ski pants straight from the 70s. The older cuts are with seam allowance, the "younger" without (Fine for me. What I do not like is that they have it mixed. It is half hearted. It could be no problem at all in the digital world to alter the older drafts. The price of 98 € is high enough) Some waist stays solutions are shown. Some pockets too.
The emphasis is on the construction. Processing is not addressed. One focus is on the production of RTW, including grading. I can hardly imagine that someone wears tailored Low Crotch Jeans.
But who knows ......
lg
posaune

[Der Zuschneider]

Can you check for me, please, how much shorter is the inside seam lenght of the back trouser?

[posaune]

It is mostly 0.7 cm or one seam (0.75). Only very special drafts have inseam front and back the same
lg
posaune

[Der Zuschneider]

So they have not figured it out that 0.75cm is too little.
Mann muss die Gesaessrundung eine Idee voller schneiden daher.

[Nishijin]

Thanks Posaune for this very detailed answer.

BTW, I've been asked low-rise trousers, I've been asked jeans, so why not some tailored low-rise jeans ?

[posaune]

Oh Oh Low crotch is very different from low rise. I see: right expression is drop crotch.
Yesterday I have seen a youngster maybe 3 years old. His Mama had bought him a low drop crotch jeans. He had to hobble the whole way. The crotch where dropped below his knees.
Maybe it was custom made?
lg
Posaune
http://shine.yahoo.c...-220100536.html

[Nishijin]

Posaune, I hate you. Now I've seen those offensive pictures that hurt my eyes, I can't unsee them. They are burned to my retina.

I don't know in other parts of the world, but in France, there has been a fashion for a few years for trousers with inspiration from the "sarouel" (in English, sirwal), and those drop-crotch trousers look like an evolution from it. (but the real sarouel is quite baggy, not skinny !).

Here is an authentic one, which I understand comes from Hammamet in Tunisia :


Original page :
http://fr.wikipedia....Mnr_6353-2b.jpg

It can be made very low-crotch, such as this one :



It has quite a noble tradition, since it was the Tenue de Tradition of the French Spahi, prestigious light cavalry units from the French African Army. Today, there is only one of them still in existence, which fights on nearly all war theatres where France is present.
Here there is an officer uniform from the end of 1940s to sell on eBay :
http://cgi.ebay.fr/T...0-/251172923052


I know some people who like to wear them in the summer, for example when working in the garden, they tell me it is really confortable. I've never tried myself.


Though I recognise the noble history of the sarouel, I can't stand drop-crotch trousers, which always look like the person wearing it has diapers under... or worse, no diapers but would need some.

[Nishijin]

Wait a minute...

Am I the only one to think that when dressing like this :


(square shoulders, long torso which is made longer by the dropped crotch), Bieber is actually trying to achive this look :

[DanMartin]

 
 
I'm having a bit of trouble reading this system. This part specifically:
 

M2-a/b The width of topside is dependent on the width of foot. With a narrow foot, the width of top side is 1⁄2 hem measure minus 1 cm. With wider hems widths, the width of topside is 1⁄2 foot width minus 2 cm.

 
What in the world is the "width of foot"? does this mean the *length* of the client's shoe so that the leg opening can be a proportionate visual match to the length of the wearer's foot? Or is foot a term for the bottom of the pattern? I still don't know what the length of that part would be.
 
I suppose as an American I think of the "length" of something, especially somebody's foot, as being the longer dimension. Somebody please explain.

Many thanks

PS the translator's math is incorrect in calculating 2/10ths of the difference of the seat and waist measures in the first step. The german text measures the waist as 84, but the translator mistranscribed the waist measure as 82 the first time, and in this calculation, transcribed it as 80! Very confusing typos here.

Edited by DanMartin, 16 March 2014 - 03:43 AM.

[posaune]

The width of  foot is supposed to be the hem circ. I do not know if this is the right expression, maybe it is bottom of trousers. I would do a "normal" trouser pattern having the hip circ as a guide for the hem circ (bottom of trousers) considering the knee circ.It depends on thigh circ, too. If you have a hip about 120 cm a hem circ about 40 is a bit narrow for a trouser not for a jeans. The trouser should please the eyes.

A rule: as smaller the hem circ and so the knee circ you must compensate the lost (bias) length at back pattern (angle and back crotch length)

lg

posaune