I have a few questions regarding modifying ones pattern for balance.
I've found 2 (maybe 3) different ways of adjusting the balance.
This is the base pattern without any modifications:
base.jpg 11.99KB 2 downloads
1: Inserting/removing strips
strip.jpg 13.32KB 3 downloads
This I thought was the most straight forward option. Its easy to understand and it can be integrated directly in the pattern making process.
or so i thought...
Turns out I can only change balance by maybe 2cm. If i try to do more the whole back slides down, pulls the neckline down, and I'm basically where I started, not enough length in the front (and ruined neckline)
2: inserting/removing wedges
wedge.jpg 12.17KB 2 downloads
After some help from this Forum (thanks again) I found this approach. It doesn't change the length of the armskye And i thought that would fix the problem with the neckline sliding down. And whilst it is more robust in that regard. (I can change Balance 3-4cm). It doesn't seem to fix the sliding issue entirely. If i do more, the back is sliding down again.
I thought eventually i would get creases from the bottom front, to the to back, but I've never been able to acheive that.
shoulderslopes.jpg 12.74KB 2 downloads
This shouldn't really affect the balance since it doesn't change the center Back, nor the front neck point. In fact, im wondering if it has any effect at all.
Isnt it just shifting the seam around? (if you change the same amount front and back)
I hope somebody can help me to understand this better.
Am I correct so far?
Are there other methods that i have missed ?
Is it better to stick with one ore are they usually combined ?
when do you choose one over the other ?
and especially, what can I do to avoid the dreaded neckline sliding down ?
Could a a large chest, big shoulder blades, or very sloping shoulders cause it ?