Jump to content


Photo

A trouser draft


  • Please log in to reply
51 replies to this topic

#37 amateursarto

amateursarto

    Pro

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 559 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:STL, MO, USA
  • Interests:shirt and tie making, tailoring

Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:46 AM

After making a myriad of dress shirts and ties in my spare time for others, I am now ready to return to my coat and trousers project. I have decided to stick to the basics at first and want to draft the trousers and make them up first, as recommended. My question is how do I add a single pleat to this draft? Thanks in advance.
AMATEURSARTO

#38 Nishijin

Nishijin

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,704 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Paris, France.
  • Interests:Mainly tailoring it seems, but my friends know better...

Posted 31 May 2011 - 09:48 AM

This is how I always make pleats :
- draft a front without pleats
- slash the front along the center grain line
- open the slash of the width of the pleat. The grain line must be kept on one side, depending on which side you make the pleat (English/Italian).

The slash "depth" depends on the style you want. For a true pleated trouser, the slash ends at the hem. You can keep straight legs by ending the slash at the knee level.

Do the same for the second pleat if you want one too, but this time always end the slash at the knee level, or above.


This is explained in the "cutting from block patterns" topic.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain

#39 greger

greger

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,115 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Washington, USA

Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:44 PM

Another method instead of slashing the pattern is to put the finger where you want to pivot the pattern and with the other hand move it left or right as big as the pleat is wanted,
  • Kerry and aFineMess like this

#40 amateursarto

amateursarto

    Pro

  • Senior Apprentice
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 559 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:STL, MO, USA
  • Interests:shirt and tie making, tailoring

Posted 01 June 2011 - 03:55 PM

Thanks Nishijin and Greger.
AMATEURSARTO

#41 Der Zuschneider

Der Zuschneider

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,428 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:TX, Houston
  • Interests:- German Cutting Systems
    - Modern Tailoring by German Semi-Traditional Standards

Posted 13 August 2011 - 01:36 AM

Posted Image

Edited by Der Zuschneider, 13 August 2011 - 01:38 AM.

  • fronno and tailleuse like this
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#42 J. Maclochlainn

J. Maclochlainn

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,123 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 29 June 2013 - 07:47 PM

Here is the info Mansie passed on to me for making his draft to imperial:

To change from metric to imperial instructions, alter the following lines as follows

Top side

Line 1 for 20cm read eight inch

Line 4 for 3cm read one and a quarter inch

Line 6 equals half leg plus 2inch

Line 12 read half seat plus three quarters of an inch

Line 15 45% angle equals inch and three quarters


Underside

Line 1 equals three quarters inch

Line two equals two inch

Line 9 equals half inch

Line 10 equals quarter of waist plus two inch

Line 11 equals quarter of seat plus two inch

Line 13 make point 24 half inch

Line 14 divide half inch each side of dart


The rest of the instructions apply for either set of measurements


The trouser measurements would convert as follows

Outside leg = 40inch
Inside leg = 30inch
Waist = 33inch
Seat = 39inch
Knee = 20inch
Bottoms = 17inch
  • tailleuse likes this
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#43 MANSIE WAUCH

MANSIE WAUCH

    Pro

  • Professional
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 686 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:North West, England

Posted 08 August 2013 - 07:33 AM



I have reproduced my trouser draft on youtube in a way that might be better for beginners to understand. (just type in youtube, basic trouser draft (gents).)

I apologise in advance for the poor graphics, as it was all done with bitmap graphics.

If anyone can recommend a vector graphics programme that will do the same images (very cheap) I would be obliged.

SG if you are on line I hope you will do the honours. (it's OK I have managed it myself, Lord knows how?)

If you change to youtube to view it you can view at a larger screen)

(I'm getting good at this video lark! Not bad for a 71 year old.)

Mansie.

Edited by MANSIE WAUCH, 09 August 2013 - 04:08 AM.

  • jukes, Jones, tailleuse and 6 others like this

#44 jukes

jukes

    Pro

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,164 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:London Suburbs

Posted 09 August 2013 - 04:16 AM

Cutting in ragtime, nice one Mansie.
  • tailleuse and Schneiderfrei like this

#45 MANSIE WAUCH

MANSIE WAUCH

    Pro

  • Professional
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 686 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:North West, England

Posted 10 August 2013 - 05:59 AM

Cutting in ragtime, nice one Mansie.

Just trying to make the beginners feel relaxed and introducing them to some good music!


Edited by MANSIE WAUCH, 10 August 2013 - 06:01 AM.

  • tailleuse, jeffrey2117 and cperry like this

#46 Terri

Terri

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,018 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Ontario Canada

Posted 01 April 2015 - 01:29 PM

I don't mean to thread jack the other post on the apprentice forum with discussions about the draft so perhaps any further discussion about this draft should happen here.
This draft is very similar to one I was taught and has elements in it that I continue to use.

My main concern was the fact that the back fork point 5a is a static 5cm measurment from the tip of the front fork position 5.
Yes, the front fork position is proportional and also the point 19 is proportional due to the fact that it is 1/2 way between point 5 and point 7.
If I draft for a seat of 102 cm on the crutch line for the front we have 34 cm across, divided 8.5cm 8.5 cm and 17cm. When drafting the back point 5a is set 5 cm from point 5, point 19 is mid way between point 5 and point 7 so the distance than from 5a to 19 is 5cm plus 4.25 cm , so 9.25cm.
I hope my math is correct, it is late!

Now draft for a size 120 seat. Now the front on the crutch line is 40 cm divided up as 10, 10, and 20 cm.
The point 5a is set 5cm from point 5, so the distance from point 5a to point 19 is 5 cm plus 5 cm so 10cm.

Yes there is gain in the front fork between those two sizes, 1.5 cm in fact but there is only a .75 cm change in the fork distance from size 102 seat to 120 seat, and that seems a potential issue.

Thoughts?

I'd draft them up for someoneto try on to see if I am right or wrong, but I am very busy at work right now.
  • Schneiderfrei likes this

#47 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 949 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 02 April 2015 - 03:15 AM

Terri, I have simulated it at the Computer. I got  an inside room at hip level (crotch diameter). I have layed the back so that the s.a. overlapp and rotated the back patterns so they touch at kneelevel. Measured from hip line to hip line.

hip 100 cm = 20.7

hip 110 cm = 22.6

hip 120 cm = 24.4

Mueller states that you should have a crotch diameter about 1/4 hip - 4 to 5.5 cm (depends on your bone structur).

lg

posaune


Edited by posaune, 02 April 2015 - 03:16 AM.

  • Schneiderfrei likes this

#48 Terri

Terri

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,018 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Ontario Canada

Posted 02 April 2015 - 08:35 AM

Thanks Posaune. Interesting.
I would really like to see it made up by someone who has experience and photos to see.
  • Schneiderfrei likes this

#49 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 949 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 02 April 2015 - 06:27 PM

just the draft. only hip and waist merasurements were altered
84 -100, 94 -110, 104-120 The rise and width of knee stayed the same (did no dart)Attached File  mansie.png   8.43KB   9 downloads.
lg
posaune
  • peterle and Schneiderfrei like this

#50 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 949 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 02 April 2015 - 08:37 PM

it is interesting. here are the mueller draft same measurements but without seam allowance hip 100, 110, 120.
and the second pic comparison Mansie's draft and Mueller waist 84 hip 100.
lg
posaune

Attached Files


  • peterle and Schneiderfrei like this

#51 MANSIE WAUCH

MANSIE WAUCH

    Pro

  • Professional
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 686 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:North West, England

Posted 07 April 2015 - 08:38 PM

Here is a trouser for 'Terri' I cannot help you with the stride room! :no:
 
 
 
TROUSERS WITH NO SIDE OR LEG-SEAM.
 
Of course there is a seam, but if the trousers are strongly creased, and the pattern is not too marked, the seam down the centre of back may be hidden.
1 to 3 side length.
3 to 2 length of leg.
2 to 4 one-sixth.
2 to 5 one-fourth.
2 to 6 one-third.
9 to 10 one-fourth waist plus ½ in.
4 to 12 half leg length minus 2 ins.
12 to 14 and 12 to 18 each half width of knee plus 1/4 in.
13 to 16 and 13 to 17 half bottom plus 1/4 in.
6 to 7 one-twelfth seat plus |-in.
7 to 8 one-eighth seat.
7 to 21 2 ins.
Square line 23 by 21, 8, 23, 22, one- twelfth waist.
Add 11/2-ins. to top of seat at 25, and make length from 8 to 22 agree with corre­sponding seam from 18 to 19.
2 to 18 one-sixth seat plus 1 1/2 -ins.
Square up to 19.
Curve up from 20 to 19 about 1 in.
Measure up size of waist and adjust at V 20.
In taking the dress out of the left side hollow front and fold pattern over about 1 in. at fork to nothing at knee, and cut by pattern in this way.

Attached Files


Edited by MANSIE WAUCH, 07 April 2015 - 08:47 PM.

  • jeffrey2117 likes this

#52 Terri

Terri

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,018 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Ontario Canada

Posted 07 April 2015 - 09:05 PM

:)
That's ok!
Wish I had the time to try this one!
Won't someone offer?




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users