12 replies to this topic

[carpu65]

I'm from Messina.

The city have still several tailors.

My tailors are Masi Lorenzo Di Pane,and Pippo Arrigo.

Arrigo make a great double breasted in my opinion.

Here some pictures from a customer from San Francisco:

 

 

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•  _ARRIGO.jpg   54KB   6 downloads
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[carpu65]

Some others pictures.

 

 

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•  fgg.jpg   107.23KB   2 downloads
•  900x900px-LL-50e9116c_image.jpg   31.55KB   2 downloads

[carpu65]

Arrigo single breasted:

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•  2137734.jpg   137.67KB   3 downloads

[carpu65]

This is the work of Masi Di Pane (sorry for the bad pictures):

 

 

http://s32.postimg.o...o24eqw5/DSf.jpg

 

http://s31.postimg.o...bf/DSCN4963.jpg

 

Here i with a Arrigo double breasted:

 

http://s31.postimg.o...p7/DSCN1172.jpg

 

[carpu65]

http://sleevehead.bl...-worktable.html

[Der Zuschneider]

If you are from Messina, stay in Messina! There is no need to come to San Francisco and steel American jobs.

[carpu65]

For sure.

This is an advice that i give willingly to my tailor.

The problem is that are the San Francisco inhabitants that come in Messina.

[Ocsecnarfskij]

Der Zuschneider: If italian tailors come to SF probably depends on the request of american customers to have them...let's say american tailoring is not that great and not even comparable to italians for sure!

However I think Arrigo work is better than Di Pane, however both make provincial jackets, a very modern jacket with a taste very near to RTW.

[greger]

"let's say american tailoring is not that great and not even comparable to italians for sure!"

Don't bet on it. You might have a hard time finding one that is still working.

[carpu65]

Mr Arrigo not go in San Francisco or in other countries at all.

But in these times in which Igents are greedy for tailors,some foreigners customers came in Messina for bespoke suits.

Some years ago a certain "Sleevhead" have write a book: "Guide to Siciian tailoring",and these tailors were discovered by traveling customers.

Of course these tailors are "provincials" (and i agree on better work of Arrigo),but i don't think that the coats are "moderns and near to ready to wear".

Ourday we have for the most barely only expensive great tailor houses in great Cities remained,while the "minor" tailors that once were everywhere are disappeared.

In Messina there are still,and order clothes from them is a little pleasure of life.

Discuss the cut,the details,then the fits..are experience that many had forgot or never tried in life.

Edited by carpu65, 29 July 2016 - 03:03 PM.

[greger]

That is how it was here 30 and more years ago. Not sure when the apprenticeships went under. Maybe 40-50 years ago. How many tailors had house styles/silhouettes? "Styles" came and went pretty fast. How many tailors made what the customer wanted. That means you could design your own coat and clothes. If you want your clothes to represent something you could ask and work with the tailor to get it made how you wanted it made. These tailors had many questions to ask, because a reason can't be made just any old way, reasons require precision. Representing something has lots of details, like as a costume, because that's what really is, sort of a story, or explanation, whatever. I find these tailors far more interesting than those who are glued to house styles. Adventure is a good thing.

[carpu65]

For example i ask for a 1950s or sometimes for a early 60s silhouette,and don't I don't give a damn if is out of fashion.

[greger]

Why would you want clothes that don't represent you? Any silhouette, new or old, that represents somebody else, is it representing you? My lessons were clothes are to represent the person to wear them. To embody them. To answer your question, some tailors with research could do a fair job from some perspectives. Of course, could you wear them as they were worn back then? Some words and there usage have changed and other expressions. Those clothes also represent these, too. Didn't use the word costume as normal Americans use it. Shaping a coat with canvases and pad stitching and fish, darts, spreads and iron leaves many options. Practically every seam can be moved or eliminated. So many coats today are squareish and flatish, to many is boring. This one person on TV, believe he wrote music, he certainly conducted it and played piano, he was wearing the nicest white tie coat I've ever seen, probably made by an Italian, a modern cut but the shaping was completely different than all the others. It was definitely a hand shaped coat. Today's world of lack of choice many people don't know that some tailors offer choice. Developing choice is enlightenment. My lesson is the customer shouldn't ask for any house silhouette, but for a personal garment. So, look into your soul, so to say, and find out who you are, and have that made.