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The Best of the 1960s


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#1 Sator

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 06:17 PM

With the popularity of the TV show Madmen, the style of the 1960s is very much "in" at the moment. However, the trend towards the lean and clean cut of the period probably predate the TV programmme. Here are some photos from the Austrian tailoring journal, Die Allgemeine Schneiderzeitung, from October, 1962:

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#2 Sator

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 07:20 PM

Die Allgemeine Schneiderzeitung, from December, 1962:

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#3 Sator

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 10:03 PM

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#4 Sator

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 10:48 PM

From the December 1963 issue of Allgemeine Schneiderzeitung:

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#5 le.gentleman

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Posted 25 November 2009 - 02:09 AM

Thanks for sharing all those great pictures, Sator!

The the very last tailcoat pictures are superb. If have seen those gentleman in pictures before and I am pretty sure that they were in the clothing trade in Germany. I think I can find out their names but that will take some time...

#6 Sator

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Posted 26 November 2009 - 10:04 AM

The the very last tailcoat pictures are superb. If have seen those gentleman in pictures before and I am pretty sure that they were in the clothing trade in Germany. I think I can find out their names but that will take some time...


The picture of the first fellow carries the caption "Stoppel, Frankfurt" and the second one in the dress coat, "Averböck und Bröskamp, Berlin". Amusingly, neither of them appear to have bothered to bring their evening dress shoes with them for the photograph and just wear their usual day shoes - Derbies at that! :)

#7 Sator

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Posted 26 November 2009 - 09:10 PM

More of the 1960s - this time from das Schneiderhandwerk, March 1961.

The first three pictures come from a men's tailoring exhibition in Cologne:

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The last one comes from Walter Rauscher, Dresden:

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The button-two lounge was considered a bit fashion forward at the times, and it wasn't until the 1970s that the button-two fully gained acceptance. Often 1960s versions of the button-two lounge has a top buttoning position similar to a button-three, except with a button missing. The result was a wide space between the two buttons. This is more apparent on the illustration that in the last photo. Note the trousers on the last Rauscher lounge suit - very 1960s without a break at all. He appears to be wearing Chukka boots. You also see a lot of Chelsea boots, especially in British photos of the time.

#8 Sator

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 01:10 AM

From das Schneiderhandwerk, Sept 1963:

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Note how the button-two lounge in the first illustration has a buttoning point that is the same height as that of a button-three lounge. That is, it is basically a button-three with one button less. It is only in the 1970s you commonly start to see the modern type of long lapelled button-two gaining widespread acceptance.

For details on the cutting of these classical 1960s styles see this thread:

http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=725

#9 Sator

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 01:37 AM

Formal dress from the December, 1963 issue of das Schneiderhandwerk:

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#10 Sator

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 02:03 AM

From the August, 1963 issue of das Schneiderhandwerk. The title is "sporty clothes for the young":

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#11 Padme

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 05:43 AM

These are nice men's coats. This may not be the place to post my question, but I get confused on the double breasted winter coat descriptions. The 4x2's, and the 6x2's. I'm trying to understand that and commit it to partial memory, but I don't understand it, so I think that's why it's not sticking. Could you spend a little time to give an online lecture on this topic? Thank you.

#12 Sator

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 08:50 AM

Sorry, I'm not quite sure if I understand your question, Padme.

#13 Padme

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 10:15 AM

On some of the men's style blogs, they will talk about a double breasted coat they are going to have made. They will talk about the number of buttons it will have. On the comments section, someone will mention the buttons, and the person getting the coat made will go int a conversation on what all the buttons are for on the double breasted coats. They all look the same to me.

#14 Sator

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 10:36 AM

All of these things are changes according to fashion and taste. There are no hard or fast rules to these things.

In British English (and I think the Italians also do the same), you talk about the number of buttons to close the coat then add the number of show buttons eg button-two show-three. In American English you talk about the same coat being a 2x6 - the two being the number of buttons used to close the coat, the six being the total number of buttons on the coat.

The button-two show-three coat has become fairly standard in the last 40-50 years. Every twenty years or so a button-one style (with one, two or three show buttons) comes cyclically back into fashion, and these have longer lapel lines.

Here are some older, more unusual varieties, which certainly don't "all look the same":

http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=124

#15 Padme

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 10:54 AM

Thank you.

#16 Sator

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 10:31 PM

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#17 Sator

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Posted 26 December 2009 - 10:33 PM

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#18 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 27 December 2009 - 03:21 PM

Unbelievable those pictures... what a quality, there are a handful tailors only in the world to meet that limit.
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