109 replies to this topic

[carpu65]

I love this style!
Clean silhouette,narrow lapels and narrow ties are PERFECTS!

Edited by carpu65, 14 May 2010 - 03:20 AM.

[Nishijin]

Do not listen at the song, but concentrate on the suit. That's what I like to see on a pop star


Claude François's suits were cut by famous parisian cutter Joseph Camps.

[Sator]

From Das Schneiderhandwerk, January 1963:





Something from Austria:

[Sator]

From 1966:

[Sator]

From 1965:

[carpu65]

Simlpy wonderful!!
Several "La moda maschile" magazines from 1962,63 and 65,that i have buy on ebay are comming.
Stay tuned.

[Schneidergott]

Do not listen at the song, but concentrate on the suit. That's what I like to see on a pop star


Claude François's suits were cut by famous parisian cutter Joseph Camps.

Worth repeating:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_NwgjMG9JE

You're right, the song is not great, but boy, can he move in his suit. I couldn't imagine anyone doing this in a regular RTW suit.
I like how the collar stays stapled to the neck.

[Sator]

Simlpy wonderful!!
Several "La moda maschile" magazines from 1962,63 and 65,that i have buy on ebay are comming.
Stay tuned.

Were there any gems in these magazines? If so, I am looking forward to seeing them.

In the meantime here is something from DSHW February, 1964:





And July, 1966:





I think that their illustrator was one of the best working in Europe at the time.

[Sator]

From DSHW December, 1966:

[Sator]

From ASZ September 1964:

[Sator]

From ASZ Sept, 1964:

[Sator]

From DSHW December, 1968:

[Sator]

From DSW December, 1968:

[Svenn]

From DSHW December, 1968:

Sator how do they get such a hard-finished, clean look to those suits? It's like they were sculpted out of stone... is it just heavier fabric than we're used to today or just lots of careful tailoring?

[Nishijin]

Sator how do they get such a hard-finished, clean look to those suits? It's like they were sculpted out of stone... is it just heavier fabric than we're used to today or just lots of careful tailoring?

I wonder too... I think the fabric changed a lot.

Keep in mind too that pictures are "redrawn", there is drawing on all the seams to make them easier to "read". This reinforce the "sculpted" effect.

[carpu65]

Sator said:

The style of the 1960s is very much "in" at the moment. The Mod era styling is seeing a revival partly because of the TV show Mad Men, although the trend towards lean and clean cut typical of this period was something that probably predated the show. It is definitely "in the air" at the moment.

"Divine is the measure",said the ancient Greeks,and the actual slim cut is ugly and very different from that of 60s.
For the first thing in 60s the Italian cut was clean,but not too much slim.
Revers were from 7 to 8 cm in the single breasted,trousers high waist,and almost never flat front (in 60s generally was a single dart).
In 1966-67 we had a more slim fit,but for the ready to wear only.
Tailors fashionables like Brioni and Litrico cut very slim suits only for foreign customers.
For the majority of the italians the slim fit was vulgar and poor (and many tailors in GB thought same).
The actual slim cut is vulgar and poor.
The trousers are slow waist,short and flat front,the revers are too narrow..is a parody!
For an Italian of 60s this suits were ridiculous and bad taste.

Under: from left-Italian 1963,Usa 1963,? 2009.



Typical 60s Italian trouser with one dart.

[carpu65]

More clean-but-not-too-much-slim Italian suit of 60s.



In the Italy of 60s double breasted was very much in fashion
Under two 1964 clean line DB (at right an Gioacchino Pirri of Messina).

[Sator]

You often read Americans especially talking about this stereotype of slim fitting Italian clothes.

Recently I showed a Rundschau article where there was runway display of the best of the work of different countries at an international tailor's congress. Rundschau remarked that the Italian models were characterised by having a bit more ease in their cut. From what I have seen of garments cut off the Italian Panaro system (Il Tagliatore di Abiti in Azione, from the 1960s) I would agree with this. Both the Rundschau and Tailor & Cutter systems result in cleaner cuts.

I think the reason Americans think that Italian cuts are slim fitting is only because Italians are generally slimmer than Americans. As a result, ready made garments exported overseas feel like they are cut slim. In reality it is more a case of clothes not fitting properly. The same is true even for Armani, whose coat cut is classically very drapey - easy and soft, but only if it is worn by the figure for which it was intended!!!!