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Buying first handmade or bespoke jacket


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#1 Matt0231

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Posted 14 August 2016 - 12:39 AM

Good Day All,

I'm a fairly new member of this forum, and I'm finding it to be brilliant for information that seems to be scarcely available elsewhere.

Whilst I'm learning (struggling) to draft a pair of trousers, I decided to ask the only local tailor to price a jacket for me.
I'm thinking of supplying the cloth : https://www.yorkshir...products/1k3-24 (advice or criticism on this is welcome)

He's quoted the following:
Bespoke £1200
Hand made "at the factory" £600

I'm not sure the bespoke option would be the way to go as a "first outing" in to tailored garments, but my understanding is that handmade should also be made in-house, and in the "house style", with the difference being that the pattern isn't specifically drafted for the client (and there may not be so many choices on details)?

I have no problem with the prices, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything before making a decision. The "at the factory" statement started to ring alarm bells.

Any advice on this would be gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,
Matt.

#2 greger

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Posted 14 August 2016 - 07:24 AM

Tend to think the factory methods don't lend into bespoke. If he does make a personal pattern and two or more fittings during the making process then the factory method could be a good deal. If not, then I would go with his bespoke method. Without the personal pattern and two or more fittings it is nothing but a dead end. No achievement.

The bespoke method is more involved, which is why it cost more. In house, out of house doesn't matter as long as those people are real tailors. Factory workers may be labeled tailors for tax purposes, or whatever, but they are not what I call real tailors. They maybe skilled for factory purposes. Real tailors are working towards a different end- a far better garment. Because, it is for a single person, and what single person is same as another? Factory is good for, "we'll pretend this fits you". Bespoke are truly personal garments.
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#3 tombennett

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Posted 14 August 2016 - 07:39 AM

I buy most of my cloth from Yorkshire Fabrics, Andy Smith there is a very helpful chap. As for factory/Bespoke go with what Greger said.


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#4 Matt0231

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Posted 14 August 2016 - 10:33 PM

Thanks Greger and Tom.
All very helpful advice 👍

I'll have a chat with the tailor and find out more about his handmade process / fittings etc.

Glad to know Yorkshire Fabrics are good to use. I'll have a chat with them as well. One of the things that did give me confidence in the tailor was that he asked which mill the cloth would be from; to ensure quality. I'm sure someone at YF can let me know.
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#5 lngn2

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Posted 22 August 2016 - 05:33 AM

Have you looked at Whitcomb and Shaftesbury? They seem well rated and the British cut/Indian sewn suits come out at a fair price.

#6 tailleuse

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Posted 23 August 2016 - 09:19 AM

Watch this video series by Rory Duffy,  a tailor who was trained on Savile Row.  They were created to show his clients what's involved.  Then look for other, similar videos or articles by bespoke tailors.

 


Edited by tailleuse, 23 August 2016 - 09:20 AM.

Dignity. Always, dignity. (Singin' in the Rain)


#7 Matt0231

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Posted 29 August 2016 - 11:05 PM

Thanks all.
I had a good, hour long, chat with the tailor (all very encouraging) and have decided to try his handmade option.
I'll post a picture of the results once I have the finished item.

I checked out Whitcomb and Shaftesbury online, looks good and definitely worth a visit next time I'm in London.
I also re-watched the Rory Duffy series. Even with an engineering background it astounds me how much skilled work goes into a coat.

Thanks once again to all.
Matt
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