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#19 posaune

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Posted 22 September 2019 - 07:27 PM

Take a look at your folds. Most of them start at the sideseam. Let's start with the first right side view. We look from side seam: The back: under the armhole up to shoulder. A big wad at CB at waist level and the fabic is pulled to the behind and it sits there. Sideseam is pulled too.

The front: The armhole pulls up as in back,  a big fold from hip to the bust point and same smaller folds going up to belly start and end of the belly mountain. The CF button stand stands away from body and the hem is pulled up.

your conclusion is right the balance is lacking.

Why? Because you push your belly in front (need more length and width) and at the same time your behind out (needs less length but more width),it is your posture - your hips are doing this.

Taking out 3 cm in back now cleaned the CB wad in back - but the armhole got worser. The fabric is released from the bum. The CB falls straight now as it should. Side seam runs better.

So you are on the right track. You have shortened the length and move the width up.

 

Everybody is doing alterations as they are used too.

I would start with pinning out a wedge with 1.5 at CB to nothing at armhole at the back and open he front with 1.5 cm at first. (You cut across and set in a piece of fabric but the upper part is pinned for further alteration). Now you make pics - you pin again let out or take in till it is nearly good.

 

The second alteration concerns your belly posture, when you look from the side the belly is before the bust - maybe 1.5 cm - which means you must add fabric at waist level and get more length for it. As your bust needs more fabric too - you can try to do a larger bust circ. I guess this maybe a case where to do or not to do. This means put about 1-2 cm more in the Bb - and you will get more front waist-hip too. And do add 1 cm at hip at each sideseam. You can pin that out later if it is too much.

lg

posaune

ah forgot : snip little snips at the buttom of the armholes till the stress is release to get the right Rh


Edited by posaune, 22 September 2019 - 07:38 PM.

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#20 Newbie

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Posted 22 September 2019 - 09:27 PM

Thanks for the great advice.

 

So I changed the balance as posaune described, and I think it is alright now. I eventually added 2,25 in the front and took out 1,5 at the back... i will probably distribute the 3,75 more evenly in the finished draft. If I try to pin out the new cf the shirt is getting a little tight around the chest area since I took away about 1,5 cm in that area by drawing the new cf line. Should I just add 1-2 cm in the Bb? does that mean I have to make another muslin?

 

It is hard to tell from the pictures, but it seems to me that the left shoulder is cut too steep, and there are a lot of creases in the back. I haven't yet tapered the side seam and I think I have to make back darts as well, so maybe this will change after those alterations.

 

balance4.jpg

 

balance2.jpg

 

balance1.jpg

 

balance3.jpg



#21 posaune

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Posted Today, 02:42 AM

The back: I assume that you have a sway back  (I can't see this correct) and/or protruding shoulder blades?

The side seams are straight and the fabric is not sitting on the behind - could need a bit more width. But this can come from the front.

yes add a bit at the Bb. Do it like before with the wedge cut vertical straight down ( 2 cm besides the neckhole) sew a strip of fabric in (beware of the grain) I would add first 1 cm. Snip the front neck hole like you did with the armhole - it sits tight and high.

after this we will see what we can do for those bust folds in front and make the back more clean.

lg

posaune


Edited by posaune, Today, 02:44 AM.

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