A trouser draft
Posted 31 May 2011 - 04:46 AM
Posted 31 May 2011 - 09:48 AM
- draft a front without pleats
- slash the front along the center grain line
- open the slash of the width of the pleat. The grain line must be kept on one side, depending on which side you make the pleat (English/Italian).
The slash "depth" depends on the style you want. For a true pleated trouser, the slash ends at the hem. You can keep straight legs by ending the slash at the knee level.
Do the same for the second pleat if you want one too, but this time always end the slash at the knee level, or above.
This is explained in the "cutting from block patterns" topic.
Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:44 PM
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Posted 13 August 2011 - 01:36 AM
Edited by Der Zuschneider, 13 August 2011 - 01:38 AM.
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Posted 29 June 2013 - 07:47 PM
To change from metric to imperial instructions, alter the following lines as follows
Line 1 for 20cm read eight inch
Line 4 for 3cm read one and a quarter inch
Line 6 equals half leg plus 2inch
Line 12 read half seat plus three quarters of an inch
Line 15 45% angle equals inch and three quarters
Line 1 equals three quarters inch
Line two equals two inch
Line 9 equals half inch
Line 10 equals quarter of waist plus two inch
Line 11 equals quarter of seat plus two inch
Line 13 make point 24 half inch
Line 14 divide half inch each side of dart
The rest of the instructions apply for either set of measurements
The trouser measurements would convert as follows
Outside leg = 40inch
Inside leg = 30inch
Waist = 33inch
Seat = 39inch
Knee = 20inch
Bottoms = 17inch
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Posted 08 August 2013 - 07:33 AM
I have reproduced my trouser draft on youtube in a way that might be better for beginners to understand. (just type in youtube, basic trouser draft (gents).)
I apologise in advance for the poor graphics, as it was all done with bitmap graphics.
If anyone can recommend a vector graphics programme that will do the same images (very cheap) I would be obliged.
SG if you are on line I hope you will do the honours. (it's OK I have managed it myself, Lord knows how?)
If you change to youtube to view it you can view at a larger screen)
(I'm getting good at this video lark! Not bad for a 71 year old.)
Edited by MANSIE WAUCH, 09 August 2013 - 04:08 AM.
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Posted 09 August 2013 - 04:16 AM
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Posted 10 August 2013 - 05:59 AM
Cutting in ragtime, nice one Mansie.
Just trying to make the beginners feel relaxed and introducing them to some good music!
Edited by MANSIE WAUCH, 10 August 2013 - 06:01 AM.
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Posted 01 April 2015 - 01:29 PM
This draft is very similar to one I was taught and has elements in it that I continue to use.
My main concern was the fact that the back fork point 5a is a static 5cm measurment from the tip of the front fork position 5.
Yes, the front fork position is proportional and also the point 19 is proportional due to the fact that it is 1/2 way between point 5 and point 7.
If I draft for a seat of 102 cm on the crutch line for the front we have 34 cm across, divided 8.5cm 8.5 cm and 17cm. When drafting the back point 5a is set 5 cm from point 5, point 19 is mid way between point 5 and point 7 so the distance than from 5a to 19 is 5cm plus 4.25 cm , so 9.25cm.
I hope my math is correct, it is late!
Now draft for a size 120 seat. Now the front on the crutch line is 40 cm divided up as 10, 10, and 20 cm.
The point 5a is set 5cm from point 5, so the distance from point 5a to point 19 is 5 cm plus 5 cm so 10cm.
Yes there is gain in the front fork between those two sizes, 1.5 cm in fact but there is only a .75 cm change in the fork distance from size 102 seat to 120 seat, and that seems a potential issue.
I'd draft them up for someoneto try on to see if I am right or wrong, but I am very busy at work right now.
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Posted 02 April 2015 - 03:15 AM
Terri, I have simulated it at the Computer. I got an inside room at hip level (crotch diameter). I have layed the back so that the s.a. overlapp and rotated the back patterns so they touch at kneelevel. Measured from hip line to hip line.
hip 100 cm = 20.7
hip 110 cm = 22.6
hip 120 cm = 24.4
Mueller states that you should have a crotch diameter about 1/4 hip - 4 to 5.5 cm (depends on your bone structur).
Edited by posaune, 02 April 2015 - 03:16 AM.
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Posted 02 April 2015 - 08:37 PM
and the second pic comparison Mansie's draft and Mueller waist 84 hip 100.
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Posted 07 April 2015 - 08:38 PM
Edited by MANSIE WAUCH, 07 April 2015 - 08:47 PM.
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