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Thimble trouble, pattern drafting, tools and the dart.

Thimble trouble pattern drafting tools dart tools thimble pattern tailoring trousers pant drafting

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#1 HautenDandy



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Posted 22 July 2014 - 06:49 AM

Hello all,


Rewriting this after me and computer had a spat.


Got a couple questions, searched through the forums for a while and had no luck.


First off a thimble. I'm going to order a open ended thimble from lacis. Right now I have a Prym closed end thimble. 12mm on the closed end. 22mm long. 18mm on the opening. The opening fits alright no pain when bent. finger fills the entire hole when bent. Any bit past the opening doesn't fit. Its much to tapered. I can barely touch the close end, if I do, it surely doesn't feel kosher. My fingers aren't big, they just don't taper much. If I get the lacis 18.5 open end will it taper as much?


Off topic but what would you think to be a perfect thimble, material, weight, strength? I know that smooth edges, deep dimples and no lip are what I have found so far. Anything to add?


For the pattern drafting tools. I have ordered everything except for the hip curve and french curve. Now I'm not saying I am any where near as skillful in any way shape or form, but in videos I watched of tailors, they never seem to use a curve of any type. But if I should need them, should I get them both and in 24 inches. or should I get a combined one like this?




I have already got a yard stick and wool square from an old wool mill.

I know I shouldn't ask, but what about a iron. The only dry smooth faced iron I can find is from the Vermont country store.




And I know I should not worry about this but if I should ever draft a different pattern. How much extra material would you make sure to have around the knee for say, a tighter fitting trouser. I know you probably want an inch or more extra, even if measuring a bent knee?


As for darts. I know they usually go in back above the back pocket. But in what instance would you need to add more? And how long should they be?


The first pair of pants I made, the pattern called for a vertical dart, and a horizontal one. after placing these, I surely do not have enough flesh to filled out such a bubble.


When would front darts be implemented?


Again apologies if these questions have been answered. I know you bunch dedicated alot of time and distilled knowledge into this forum and I would want to add my self to the "pesky kids" list for a bit of malnourished impatient research.

Thank you again and with great respect,




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#2 Claire Shaeffer

Claire Shaeffer


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Posted 22 July 2014 - 01:32 PM


Your questions are overwhelming. Can you post each individually? 


I personally prefer a wooden hip curve and a curve for necklines and armcyes, but I recommend rulers like the Fashion ruler which combine the two for home-sewers who have limited budgets and/or space. There's nothing wrong with them but they are heavier and aren't as easy to manipulate easily.


I have the hip curve which I bought several decades ago when I was a very poor student. I also have cheap ones that were made in Mexico; they're heavier and not as smooth. You can probably guess which i prefer.


There are several curves and my dressmaking colleagues each have a favorite. I like the Dietzen 17--the one I first used in college. 

Claire Shaeffer

Author, Couture Sewing Techniques



#3 HautenDandy



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Posted 22 July 2014 - 05:11 PM

Alright ill write them out tomorrow :)


About the 24 inch fairgate curve. It seems to follow the same angle as the 24 inch fairgate hip curve, or does it just look like it? I didn't think about the saving room part. I do have a somewhat small area maybe the 3 in 1 fairgate would be better.


Im only focusing on trouser patterns right now so I'm not worried about the french curve, at least I don't think I need it for trousers.


Thanks again!

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