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Shirt interfacing suppliers supplies

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#19 Dunc

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Posted 23 May 2019 - 09:50 PM

No problem, I'll update this thread with whatever information I can find.


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#20 Dunc

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Posted 28 May 2019 - 07:00 PM

One small update so far...

 

I have just ordered some DHJ Mellosan from this supplier: https://www.chemital...goriacod=100007. You have to register with them first, but it only takes 2 minutes, and they sell by the metre. Shipping to the UK for a small package is only 6 euros.

 

I thought the shipping was suspiciously cheap... There was some kind of glitch in their ordering system - 6 euros is the shipping cost within Italy. Shipping to the UK for my second order (1m each of 4 different weights of Fusetop) was E14.80. And checking out for international shipping was a bit tricky - they say they'll calculate shipping and update you with the final cost after you submit the order, but their system wouldn't let me submit the order without shipping... (Looking at the order numbers generated, I don't think they get many web orders.) However, they did at least respond fairly promptly to an enquiry via the contact form on the website, which is more than I can say for DHJ Chargeurs, who still haven't responded to my enquiry for information on their range...

 

Mt order should arrive today, so once I've confirmed that it is indeed the stuff I'm looking for, it'll be time to order a heat press. Buying the heat press should be easy - there's loads of them on eBay. It's buying the interfacing that's hard.


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#21 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 28 May 2019 - 08:55 PM

I joined in a group purchase of Mellosan in 2014.

 

This was the post - discussion.

 

http://www.cutterand...3244#entry36905

 

 

"I'm looking to put an order together for the Mellosan 29NC from DHJ. Based on the 2013 price from them it would be €6/m including VAT plus €17 to post up to 2kg by regular untracked post to Australia."      Ladhrann

 

G


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#22 Dunc

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Posted 28 May 2019 - 09:30 PM

The Mellosan 29NC is really lovely stuff, and will probably displace Acorn's Sabden as my favourite heavyweight non-fusible... I'm just hoping that the Fusetop is as good.

 

The price for Mellosan 29NC from Chemital is €10.79 per metre (ex VAT), but I imagine shipping to Australia might be a bit pricey. They also have 285BC, (which is a medium weight) for €4.03 , and 700C (which I assume is lightweight) for €4.39.



#23 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 28 May 2019 - 09:41 PM

I still have 7 mtrs, But One Day, I will need some more.

 

:)

 

It's why I like to keep supplier lists current.

 

G


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 28 May 2019 - 09:42 PM.

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Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#24 Dunc

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Posted 29 May 2019 - 11:24 PM

Well, the Fusetop has arrived, and it definitely seems to have glue on one side. :)

 

The 930 is very light (as expected). Might be useable as a collar stand interfacing.

 

What's listed on the site as 6.485 appears to be a typo, as it's come back marked 485, and is extremely light - basically muslin. Probably another one for the ever-growing pile of interfacings I'll never actually use...

 

The 285 is medium, very soft. (well, it was labelled "extra soft", I guess...) Should be OK for collar stands and cuffs, but seems a bit light for a collar.

 

The 160 is heavier, and seems like it might be OK for collars, but again seems very soft.

 

Obviously they'll behave differently once fused, so some experimentation will be required. I guess it's time to order a heat press...


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#25 Dunc

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Posted 29 May 2019 - 11:34 PM

Oh, and I've just tried ordering something from al Forderame, but they don't have any shipping options for outside Italy, so I guess they're off the list.



#26 Dunc

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Posted 30 May 2019 - 07:32 PM

Initial tests (just 1" squares fused to a bit of scrap with the iron) are very positive. Fusing makes it seem a bit firmer, but it remains very supple. It's always hard to tell from small pieces, but here's my impressions so far:

 

485: Ideal for subtle reinforcement on plackets.

930: Light collar stands and cuffs, very light collars.

285: Heavier collar stands and cuffs, light collars

160: Medium collars

 

Firmer collars will require two layers... This would allow you to build a total of 5 different weights of collar from just 2 weights of interfacing. (I believe this approach is fairly common in RTW production.) I'll obviously have to make a number of samples once my heat press arrives...

 

I purchased all of them in optic white, which is very good and bright (other colours are available, but availability varies by grade). They have a really good finish and a very smooth, supple hand. Really first class stuff!


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#27 Dunc

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Posted 05 June 2019 - 06:55 PM

My heat press arrived yesterday, so I spent a couple of hours putting together some sample collars, and I must say, I'm very impressed. I'm fusing at 175 deg C for 15 seconds, under as much pressure as reasonably possible without making the machine too awkward to open and close, and the bond seems to be very good. Of course, I'll need to put them through a few cycles of washing and ironing to know for sure... What I can say now is that the resulting collars are lovely, taking a smooth curve with no tendency to kink. I'm completely sold.

 

Unfortunately, this means I'm probably going to want to replace the collars and cuffs on a number of my shirts... ;)

 

In case anybody is wondering, I don't fancy your chances of fusing this stuff adequately with a hot iron - it's good enough to stick everything in place temporarily while you put it in the fusing press, but I don't think it would hold up to repeated laundering. Thankfully a small press isn't really that expensive. (Well, I say "small", the platten is 38 x 38 cm, but the whole thing takes up a fair bit of bench space and weighs over 20kg...)


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#28 Newbie

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Posted 09 June 2019 - 10:24 PM

I only used the Acorn non fusible interlinings so far and was rather pleased with the result. Especially the sabden makes for a rather nice collar.

 

Given the previous post about the need for a press, are there any quality fusible linings that will be able to be fused by iron? I remember an article about the 100 hands shirts claiming that they attach all there interlinings just with an iron. 


Edited by Newbie, 11 June 2019 - 12:27 AM.

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#29 Dunc

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Posted 10 June 2019 - 09:07 PM

Given the previous post about the need for a press, are there any quality fusible linings that will be able to fuse by iron? I remember an article about the 100 hands shirts claiming that they attach all there interlinings just with an iron. 

 

I haven't found anything that I was satisfied with, and I've bought a sample of just about every woven interfacing I could find. All of the "consumer" interfacings I've tried are very light. You might want to look at Vilene G700 - that's about the best I've found, but it's still not much heavier than muslin.

 

I'm not sure I'd trust anything you could fuse with an iron to stand up to the rigours of commercial laundry... Maybe if you use a proper heavy tailors iron and are very careful about it, but you can probably buy a press cheaper.

 

To be honest, I've become quite cynical about a lot of claims made by various "high end" shirtmakers - a lot of it just seems to be marketing. I'm not convinced that makes a difference whether the collar is fused with an iron or by a machine - especially the sort of clamshell heat-press that I use. There may be some difference with the continuous fusing machines used in factories, but I couldn't say...


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#30 Newbie

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Posted 11 June 2019 - 12:35 AM

Thanks for the response. The only reason I would want to try a fusible interlining is for a crisper look on the stiffer collars, so the lightweight interlinings aren't of much use to me. Since I was contemplaiting the idea of a new heavy iron, I will give it a try before I bring myself to acquire a heat-press as well ;)


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#31 Dunc

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Posted 11 June 2019 - 06:03 AM

Well, I suppose it's worth a shot for the price of a couple of metres of interfacing. Let us know how you get on.



#32 posaune

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Posted 12 June 2019 - 06:19 AM

I had in the past contact with a producer of interfacing for shirts (Gygli (Freudenberg)). They did send me some samples , very nice contact. They had only experience with the industry and this means a press with high temperature and a high pressure. I tried the samples with my iron and a household press (elna). The result: With some fabrics and the hoosehold press some of them work. Others bubble up after washing. I think the temperature is not the challenge it is the pressure.

Freudenberg (Vlieseline or G7 or so) makes interfacings  which can be handled with irons. But they could not answer my questions what to use for doing a collar with 2 layers of interface and just using the iron. I use now sew-in interface (Acorn or the French firm) and for soft collars I have some good cotton bastist - reasonable stiff. I try to get some bamboo.

lg

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#33 greger

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Posted 12 June 2019 - 02:23 PM

Posaune, what about hemp? 



#34 Dunc

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Posted 12 June 2019 - 06:55 PM

The sort of press I'm talking about is not an ironing press like the Elna, it's a high pressure clamshell press designed for applications like t-shirt printing, like the one shown here. You can get them on eBay at quite reasonable prices.







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