I figure the middle is best. I don't see any reason for tension on them, except maybe sideways. The neckband is different. As are sleeves.
How to sew a button in a professional way (highest grade) instruction needed.
Posted 06 March 2018 - 02:29 AM
Recently I examined two couture jackets -- YSL and Chanel--with front bands and vertical buttonholes.
The top button on each was set at the top of the buttonhole; the others were set sometimes in the middle and sometimes at the top on the same jacket.
Thoughts about sewing buttons on. Generally we are very focused on sewing them on so they'll stay forever. They don't always usually because the shank or stem deteriorates. During a recent photo shoot for the Tailoring book I'm writing I had to resew three buttons.
The first two were on a Carven jacket. The fronts were supposed to meet, but the buttons had been moved so the jacket would be snugger at the waist. When I removed the buttons, there were terrible knots that didn't want to come out and I had to be careful to avoid leaving a spot on the body of the jacket. The second had lost a button so it was simply a matter of removing all the thread ends.
For most buttons a waste knot and two backstitches will secure the button. The backstitches should be large enough so they can be removed easily and small enough to hide under the button. Give this some thought because the part of the button stem that wears is the stem itself, not the anchors at the beginning or end.
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Author, Couture Sewing Techniques
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