many thanks for getting so much support.
To my deep regret I have not the gift "rock of eye" Greger. I am more educated on the technical mathematic side.
It is no dowager hump alone. The person stands with the knees slightly bend, the back looks wide.
Back armhole gapes, front is too tight
The front length is small the back length larger in the upper body. In the lower body it is the other way round.
I have to manipluate the front pattern too not alone in length in width and the size of the bust dart too.
I attach a sketch of the person's posture (do not laugh!)
Lepus wrote to me (including some very informative literature to read about that theme):
- front/back balance adjustment obviously
- consider adding some interfacing to the (upper) back, that makes it much easier to provide controlled width/length where it is needed and forms a foundation for controlling fullness (back of armscye)
- consider adding additional seams, such as a yoke, or princess seams of some kind
- as it is generally seen as preferable to strive for a tailored look, avoid excessive width and length where possible, a tent is generally not what is wanted
- add more or customised shoulder padding as needed to obtain a crisp look
Next I have to sew a blouse.
Edited by posaune, 26 April 2015 - 05:45 PM.