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Attempt at a fitted single-breasted in 21 oz twill


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#19 Svenn

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 08:36 PM

This is a major alteration requiring the removal of the sleeves and collar. The moment you do this, the foreparts will open up and you will get the appearance of more cut away at the fronts. The reason for the closed appearance of the front is the short front balance. The same alteration will also lower the button stand of the front as well. I would not increase the cut away at front or shorten the coat until the balance problems are corrected.


Thanks for the link Sator, but I couldn't decipher the detailed tailoring literature to see what this major alteration you're referring to is? just letting out at the side seams?

-much gratitude

also, I'm wearing a very high almost edwardian collar in those pics which is why it's showing so much... the jacket's collar is actually sufficiently high I believe.

Edited by Svenn, 10 August 2010 - 08:38 PM.


#20 Sator

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 08:38 PM

The one I linked to by Dellafera - shoulder section at 5 and 6 crookened.

#21 Michael the Beloved Ay329

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 01:55 AM

Posted Image


I really like the color of the grey cloth on the right. Can anyone provide guidance as to who makes this cloth and more info...weight & type...etc

Nevermind: I found it...but its funny...unless one has the cloth sample in hand, the picture posted above looks much lighter than that posted on Jeffrey's site

Edited by Michael the Beloved Ay329, 20 August 2010 - 12:06 PM.


#22 zokiTzar

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 02:31 AM

Michael
these two look like flannel and fox bros and harrisons make beautifull ones
http://foxflannel.com/finishes.php
check on the above adress they sent me samples and they feel very nice

#23 jukes

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 03:25 AM

I really like the color of the grey cloth on the right. Can anyone provide guidance as to who makes this cloth and more info...weight & type...etc


If i remember rightly it from Dugdale,s
Edit, Just checked, its J&J Minnis, not Dugdale

Edited by jukes, 20 August 2010 - 03:31 AM.


#24 Michael the Beloved Ay329

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 09:28 AM

If i remember rightly it from Dugdale,s
Edit, Just checked, its J&J Minnis, not Dugdale


ZokiTzar & Juke...thanks

Do you folks have the original site link where the photos were from

I have seen the woolen Fox Flannel...the heaviest they offered was 14oz and it did not have the same coloring as pictured above...looks more like a worsted wool, but not a woolen flannel

Would be nice to see which J&J Minnis as I thought I had seen them all.

My apologies to the OP for a slight derailing of his thread

Edited by Michael the Beloved Ay329, 20 August 2010 - 09:29 AM.


#25 zokiTzar

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 05:10 PM

harrisons has a book of flannels
they have both worsted and woollen flannels
and fox has all from thick woollens to summer cloths
I mostly use harrisons and dugdale jjminnis I find too expensive in most cases

#26 Svenn

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 05:14 PM

What is the weight of the fabric above? everyone seems to be implying it's heavy as well.

On a related note, and I hope you all aren't tired of my thread ;), but I noticed those pics imply the wearer has large hips, as my original photos in this thread did as well.
I wonder if this a common trick of a poor camera angle, since in another style forum I noticed it happening quite a lot.
As an example, the pic on the left is take at a different angle, and makes my hips look much slimmer as they truly are, than the original pic on the right.
At the same time, and for some inexplicable reason, the space between the quarters are more open as I had desired.
Perhaps all of the flaws in this jacket are just due to poor posture?
I still feel though the jacket needs to be trimmed up closer to my body somewhere, not evident in the frontal or back view, but in side views... am I alone in that?


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#27 Nishijin

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 07:44 PM

Michael :

the charcoal flannel is from Minnis (very good flannel indeed, though I myself like Fox a lot) :
http://tuttofattoama.../next-suit.html

Original picture comes from this post :
http://tuttofattoama...o-drafting.html

I think it might be PATTERN No. 0301
http://www.hfwltd.co...p?b=jjm&c=6&p=1

If your prefer heavier flannels, check those :
PATTERN No. 0317
PATTERN No. 0318


Svenn :
in honesty, I cannot see a big difference between your two pictures. I think on the left, the fact that the arm is not lying on the body makes you a little more slender, but that's it.
That said, it is true that photo angle matters a lot. Focal length also. Angle creates parallax distortion. Focal length changes perspective. And posture of the man in the suit can give very wrong impressions. That is why someone must always be very careful in analysing garments in pictures, things can be very differente in real life.
Still, folds in cloth are folds, whatever the angle and focal length. :spiteful:
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain

#28 Michael the Beloved Ay329

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 12:45 PM

Perhaps all of the flaws in this jacket are just due to poor posture?


Svenn, there is nothing wrong with your posture

Second, part of the benefit of using a skilled bespoke tailor is that the suit is made to better take into account your body type and posture. Don't expect perfection on your first suit...but expect a good fit...especially one better than RTW and average MTM. If you opt to commission more projects with the same tailor, you will notice some areas needing further "refinement". You will give the tailor your input and he will adapt your future suits accordingly...thus improving the fit

My suits just keep fitting better & better with every subsequent commision

I think the choice of a 21oz twill was a good one and will embolden me to try one also once I get my Dugdale samples

Edited by Michael the Beloved Ay329, 21 August 2010 - 12:45 PM.


#29 Svenn

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 03:07 PM

I think the choice of a 21oz twill was a good one and will embolden me to try one also once I get my Dugdale samples


It actually wasn't as exotic as I imagined... it's hardly warmer at all (haven't worn it that much though), and feels only slightly heavier to a lighter weight suit I have. As Sator explained somewhere it's how tightly woven the wool is, not its weight. I actually wish I had gotten something maybe lighter, but thicker... since thick, plush fabrics seem to mask tailoring flaws better (like on an overcoat)... but, then it certainly would be too warm.

#30 Michael the Beloved Ay329

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 03:51 PM

I actually wish I had gotten something maybe lighter, but thicker... since thick, plush fabrics seem to mask tailoring flaws better (like on an overcoat)... but, then it certainly would be too warm.


Perhaps you can transition into tweed fabrics for a future jacket or suit commission. They are thicker and are available in countless patterns and earth tone colors

I have noticed that by wearing heavier cloths...ie 15/16oz worsted wool twills feel fine, while lighter twills or other "winter" worsted flannels in the 11oz & below range feel cheap, do not keep me warm, do not tailor/drape as well....& are being replaced

I am glad I followed Sator's & Michael Alden's advice to try heavier cloths...whether they be worsted twills, flannels or tweeds. I am transitioning my entire wardrobe for a more appropriate weight




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