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Lapelless Jackets


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#19 questioner

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 10:03 AM

As lapels and pocket flaps have an echo in form which each other. I think if you're going to remove the lapels it would be more in sympathy to remove the pocket flaps as well. It would certainly be more in keeping with the minimalist aesthetic. I'm not sure why the inverse doesn't seem to be necessary, perhaps it's merely accepted convention or perhaps flapless pockets are just more invisible; or maybe it's a positioning thing, where it appears natural for cloth to fold over to form a lapel, but less of a given for there to be a flap over a pocket.

I like your suggestion for the minimalistic reason.

#20 questioner

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 10:04 AM

"disclamer":Very casual setting. I site because sailor collar see behind. Sorry for the shirtless. If i were the designer would replace the shinny fabric for a opaque and cut the extra fabric of bottom part of front of jacket, and of course would put a shirt.

http://www.notjustal....com/shop/57713

#21 questioner

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 05:18 AM

Two aditional examples:
http://www.blackbird...lack_29496.html
http://www.blackbird...azer_29169.html

#22 questioner

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Posted 27 October 2012 - 09:28 AM

As lapels and pocket flaps have an echo in form which each other. I think if you're going to remove the lapels it would be more in sympathy to remove the pocket flaps as well. It would certainly be more in keeping with the minimalist aesthetic. I'm not sure why the inverse doesn't seem to be necessary, perhaps it's merely accepted convention or perhaps flapless pockets are just more invisible; or maybe it's a positioning thing, where it appears natural for cloth to fold over to form a lapel, but less of a given for there to be a flap over a pocket.

I think not just remove the flap pockets, what about side pocket with the enters at side seams.

#23 Artist's Eye

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 08:47 AM

I think not just remove the flap pockets, what about side pocket with the enters at side seams.

Just as good if not better.

#24 Muscle Car TC

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 07:50 AM

Well I could not editorialise, but what I will say is that without the lapel, the jacket looks very much like a cardigan. I'm not a tailor but I imagine that the absence of the lapel means that a lot of the construction involved in giving that shape is then lost. Its a style often seen in traditional garments and was a style once very common for hunting, outdoor work etc. I have an unstructured and unlined example called a báinín which has two patch pockets and no buttons as it was closed with a belt.


I never thought of coats and jackets without lapels that way, but I completely agree with you, ladrann. And, yes, coats and jackets without lapels (especially if they are double breasted and, most of all, tailcoats) are ugly as are double breasted coats and jackets, especially tailcoats, with notch lapels. As for vests without lapels, they don't look like sleeveless cardigans by any stretch of the imagination. Single breasted vests without lapels are also not ugly by any stretch of the imagination. However, double breasted vests without lapels are ugly by every stretch of the imagination as are double breasted vests with notch lapels.

#25 jeffrey2117

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 12:50 PM

Hello All,

I believe this draft was from A.G. Chaudhry's, Designing and Cutting Modern Leisure Garments, 1970? has a draft for a collarless jacket.

You may see this draft on Pages 40, 41 and 42. If someone has this book, perhaps they can load them for you to view.

I have this scanned onto my computer and attempted to upload, but the files seem too large and I cannot properly resize them.


I hope this helps.


Kind regards


Jeffrey2117

Edited by jeffrey2117, 20 May 2013 - 09:17 AM.

"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".




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