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Seeking Your Help and Advice On Jeans Fit

fitting fit jeans tailoring advice

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#1 zacharyrs

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Posted 04 December 2014 - 01:51 PM

I am a long time lurker, first time poster. I am seeking the help of the smarter and more experienced sewers on this forum. I have worked my way up to sewing my first pair of denim pants. I can only ask my wife so many times what she thinks of the fit before I need to seek professional opinion. Please review my photos and let me know how you think the fit looks, and if I did anything wrong what advice do you have to get a better fit? 

 

My known problems or noticeable areas are

 

1/ puckering where the outside edges of the top leg meet the front pockets. Is this because I have too much room on the sides, or the way I sewed the pockets in? Or is this normal?

 

2/ when I stand up straight in a straight on view, the sides are puffing out near top of my hips. I'm thinking this is because of where I put the pockets, and the pockets are pushing it out on the side. You can also see this happening on the back view. Did I put the pockets in the wrong position, thus the bottom of the pocket pushing out to the side the sides of the pants?

 

3/ and I am wondering if the back is too fluffy near bottom of butt. I want to have room to move around and sit, but I don't want to have a comically large bottom. 

 

I have worn this every single day for 7 days now, to try to get a "true" fit experience. I haven't washed the jeans after sewing, but I did prewash/preshrink the fabric before sewing.

 

The entire point of learning how to sew is to be able to make a "perfect" pair of jeans or pants. With this master pattern I used for these pants you see, I want to be able to then make 6-8 pairs of jeans in all colors and styles of denim for myself - so it's imperative I get the fit perfect on the first pants and then replicate the pattern in the future.

 

I really appreciate your time and feedback. I am a self-taught sewer who is fanatical about a proper fitting garment.

 

 

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#2 zacharyrs

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Posted 04 December 2014 - 01:53 PM

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#3 zacharyrs

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Posted 04 December 2014 - 01:53 PM

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#4 zacharyrs

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Posted 04 December 2014 - 01:54 PM

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#5 zacharyrs

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Posted 04 December 2014 - 01:55 PM

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#6 zacharyrs

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Posted 04 December 2014 - 01:57 PM

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#7 Alievens

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Posted 04 December 2014 - 07:03 PM

greger posted this in the other trouser thread and applies here:

 



#8 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 05 December 2014 - 12:30 AM

You need to draft a real jeans pattern. A jeans pattern is different from a normal trouser. It is so different that it looks weired for a tailor.


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#9 zacharyrs

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Posted 05 December 2014 - 03:17 AM

Hi all, I had used the Kwik Sew jeans pattern and modified the waist to fit.



#10 1200East

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Posted 05 December 2014 - 04:08 AM

Is it possible that the front and back rise were not adjusted as the waist was adjusted?  I think to adjust the waist you need to shorten the front and back rise because there is a shorter distance now from the top of the seat seam and the top of the zipper.



#11 zacharyrs

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Posted 05 December 2014 - 04:30 AM

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to work on taking in the backside according to this (

 

One question: In this image it says to lower the top of the garment. Would this be the top of the jeans yoke or the top of the leg before it meets the yoke on a pair of jeans?



#12 peterle

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Posted 05 December 2014 - 05:43 AM

Before you take in the backside try the following first:

 

Pin away a horizontal fold across the back trouser seat seam. the fold should be roughly in the line with the lower decorative stitching line of the pockets. You should pin away at least 4cm at the seat seam and fading this amount to 0cm at the side seams. This will remove a diamant shaped dart across your trousers back.

 

Can it be that you adjusted the waistline only at the seat seam/middle back? this would destroy the whole balance of the pattern. to get a smaller waistline you have to remove some fabric at the top of the  sideseams too.



#13 zacharyrs

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Posted 05 December 2014 - 06:03 AM

I have added a .5 inch curve on the backside. This has removed the horseshoe effect under the butt considerably! I'm feeling much better.

 

I then take the jeans and pull them up about 1 inch or so on the back waist, and I see that this REALLY helps to remove the side puckering, and remove the remaining horseshoe effect under the butt. The image that Umsie uploaded was VERY helpful.

 

When I did remove some of the waist I only took it in the front crotch area and the back area. Thanks again to Umsie, it seems I need to also take it in on the side. 

 

SO here is my plan: I'm going to take the waistband and loops off, and take the lower the top of the back yoke per the image Umsie uploaded. Then I will take in the sides of the pants in about .25 inch on both sides at the very top where the waistband would cover. Once done with these tasks, then put the waist band back on and see how it fits.

 

Thoughts?


Edited by zacharyrs, 05 December 2014 - 06:38 AM.

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#14 greger

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Posted 05 December 2014 - 06:53 AM

You maybe interested in this one too. http://www.styleforu.../one-hip-higher
To get an idea pin across the lower sideseam.

Don't want to change the yoke, because unequal shapes will be noticed.

Other changes on the yoke would be curved lines. On a fuller seat should the bottom yoke line have an downward cuvre, or upwards? Downwards would accommodate fuller seat, right? Upwards fits the hollowness of the small of the back, right? And, of course, the back run can be shaped to help with the hollowness.

Edited by greger, 05 December 2014 - 06:56 AM.

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#15 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 05 December 2014 - 08:36 AM

Also there are other jeans drafts among these fora:

 

http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=2196

 

and 

 

http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=3830

 

For future reference of course.


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 05 December 2014 - 01:21 PM.

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#16 A TAILOR

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Posted 06 December 2014 - 04:12 AM

Welcome Zac

 

Can you give us pictures of your pattern?



#17 zacharyrs

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Posted 06 December 2014 - 02:00 PM

Hi all,

 

Here is what I did yesterday and today. I took the seat in more than one inch, and lowered the top of the waistband on top of the yoke - essentially cutting .5 inch off of the yoke top. I also sloped the side of the jeans starting 5 inches from top of sides, and curved it further in .25 inch, resulting in pulling the waist in .5 inch which is making for a much better fit. Previously I was taking in the front crotch and back rear seam but failing to do so on the sides so this is for making that up.

 

I am going to post four photos of my new fit, and then photo of my pattern. My pattern is just taking a Kwik-Sew jeans pattern, and I made the following modifications: moving the crotch seam in, moving the rear seems in, and taking in the seams at the sides. The new fit is snugger at the hips, which is rather new to me because my RTW jeans are not so tailored on the fit. Wife says the butt looks better and I have reduced the fraying out on the sides. The butt is a lot snugger now. Note I still do see some tugging inwards at the pocket seams.

 

I am looking forward to your feedback. 

 

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#18 zacharyrs

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Posted 06 December 2014 - 02:01 PM

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