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Unicut Close fitting Shirt 1974 pg 156

Unicut shirt draft slim 1974

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#1 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 10:29 AM

UNICUT Close Fitting Shirt

 

Unicut Sept 1974 pg 156

 

http://www.intermode...73-74_gross.pdf

 

 

In a rather classical style, but without a shoulder blade pleat, this shirt is quite close to the body; yet it having the necessary ease in the back.

 

With all Cutting Diagrams:

 

Seam Allowances MUST be Added

 

The measurements:

 

Chest                    – 50

Scye Depth         – 23 ½  (scye depth is a calculated measurement: ¼ chest + ¼ waist length (see page 154 of Intermode 1973-1974). it also can be measured from the neck point to a strip of folded paper which is clamped under the arm in the highest possible position and folded horizontally to centre back. (Actual scye depth will be 2cm lower(W....O).)

Waist length:     – 44 ½ (calculation formula: 1/4 height)

Length:                                 – 80

Back Width:        – 20 ½ (formula: 1/4 chest + 8cm front)

Chest Width:      – 20 (formula: 1/2 chest – 5cm)

Neck:                    – 41

Sleeve length    – 60 (outer length of from armhole seam to wrist)

 

Fig_6_Unicut_Hemd_gross.jpg

 

Fig. 6 Drafts of Back and Front parts

 

A...A1         = 1/6 the Neck + ½ cm (In this case 7 ¼ cm)

A...W         = 1/3 of A...A1

W...O         = Scye Depth + 2 cm (25 ½ cm)

W...T          = Waist length + 2 cm (46 ½ cm)

W...L          = Length (80 cm)

O...O1        = Back Width + 2 cm (22 ½ cm)

A3              = vertical from O1

A3...S        = 1/5 of A3...O1 — 1 cm (4 ½ cm)

A1...A2      = 1 cm (Shoulder line from A2 Across, Passing S)

S...S1         = 2 cm

01...02        = ¼ of the Chest Width (12 ½ cm)

A4               = vertical from O2, 2 cm lower than A3

O2...O3      =  Chest Width + ½ cm (20 ½ cm)

A6...L2       = vertical to O3

A6...C         = same amount as A...A1 (Draw a circle with centre point A6)

A7               = 1 cm beyond the circle line

C1              = ½ cm below the circle line.

 

The entire neck seam (W...A1 + A7...C1) should almost be the Neck width of 41 cm.  At the same time any occurring difference has to be eliminated by adjusting the height of A7.

 

A7...S2        = Same width as A2…S1

O2...S2        = O1   S1 – 2 cm

 

Side Seam: O4 lies 1 cm in front of the middle of O1...O2. Draw a vertical midline; remove 1,5cm at waist depth narrowing into the hem. (I.e.: shape the actual side seam lines, hollowing 1,5cm on both sides at the waistline and tapering to 0cm at the hemline.)

 

Front Edge (overlap) extends 2cm from centre front line.

 

Yoke: the yoke seam is measured down: 3 cm from A7 and S2: 5 cm from S1: 6 cm from W: The shoulder blade dart (A1...A2) is vertical and tapering to the yoke seam, and will be folded/pinched away.

 

Drawing upper right corner:  To form the yoke join the shoulder lines A2..S1 and A7...S2.  The back yoke seam curves out ½ cm between the arm scye and the folded dart line.  Hollow both front yoke seams ½ cm at the first third.

 

Fig_6_Hemd_Goeller.jpgUnicut_Hemd_Sleeve.jpgUnicut_fig_7_Manschette.jpg

 

Fig. 7 The sleeve

 

K...P = Centre line: outer sleeve length minus 7 cm cuff width (at P: square out to both sides)

K lies in the middle between S1 and S2 at the armscye of the pattern.

K...m = half height of O4...K of the armscye (square line)

K...U7 rear armhole circumference from S1…O4

K...U6 front armhole circumference from S2…O4

Sleeve Cap: in the rear the upper third curves out 2 cm, in the front lower third a 1 cm hollow.

P...P6 and P...P7: 15 cm each (straight seam lines to U6 and U7)

The Rear Slit lies 6 cm inside P7 and is 10 cm long.

Left and right of the slit are lying with each 2 cm distance and each 2 cm deep folds.  The cuff is 26 cm long and 7 cm wide.

 

Unicut_Back_and_Front.jpg

 

Back, Front and Yoke (Göller)

 

Not only the contour of the sides seams but also the contour of the yoke seams of the pattern pieces have to match exactly.

 

Fig. 8 to 11: The Collar

 

It can be worked with a separate stand or as a one-piece collar.  In the latter case though there is a condition, that the rear collar width (K2... K4) is ½ cm higher than the collar stand (W...K2)

 

Fig_8_Unicut.jpg

 

Fig. 8: the Collar Stand

 

A...C           = half collar width (20 ½ cm)

C...C1         = ½ cm

C...3            = 3 cm

A...W          = 1 ½ cm

W...K2        = 3 ½ cm

C1...C2       = 2 ½ cm, right angle to the line 3...C1

Extension of the collar stand seam C1: 2cm, (it’s the same amount that the front edge extends past the centre front CF)

 

Unicut_fig_9.jpg

 

Fig. 9: The One Piece Collar

 

K2...K4       = 4 cm (= ½ cm more than W...K2)

C5               = ca. 4 cm outside C1

C5...K5      = ca. 10 cm

 

Unicut_fig_10.jpg

 

Fig. 10: Preparation for the two piece collar

 

Here K2…K4 is more than ½ cm wider than the collar foot (stand);

Therefore the outer edge of the collar would be too short compared to a one-piece collar.  Parallel to CB, K2...K4, lines are drawn 3 cm apart.

 

Unicut_fig_11.jpg

 

Fig. 11: Collar with a separate stand

 

After the collar fold line is cut off (line K2...C2), the three lines (are slashed) to the collar fold line, (and opened at the outer edge) by about a third each of the missing amount (Total extension: the amount, that K2...K4 is wider than W...K2).

 

With all Cutting Diagrams:

 

Seam Allowances MUST be Added


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 14 April 2018 - 10:49 AM.

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#2 gatto

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Posted 14 April 2018 - 02:57 AM

Schneiderfrei, good evening !

 

before cutting this shirt, I would like to understand better one point.

At the beginning of your post you said:  without a shoulder blade pleat, this shirt is quite close to the body.

So did you suggest us to make a shirt with this draft, without making the pleat  A1-A2 on the yoke, don't you ?

 

Please, tell me if I did understand  well:  I should  find and draw points A-A1-A2-A3-S- S1 

and then connect directly A1 and S1 without making the pleat.

Is this correct ?

Or should I draw everything, making the pleat, and see where point S1 is gone (probably a little bit towards A3 and S ) 

 

Thanks and regards, 

Gatto



#3 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 14 April 2018 - 11:04 AM

Hi Gatto, great to hear from you.

 

One big problem with this post is that it is a restoration of the same post that was damaged by photobucket, earlier.  As a matter of fact I just had to alter all the image URLs on this one too.  On the previous posting there was already a discussion about this point.

 

Firstly, the draft is from 1974 so "close fitting' does not reflect today's expectation of excessively slim shirts.

 

The next point is that the pinch at A1 - A2 is integral to the draft, AND it is supposed to occur at the paper draft stage to get the shape of the pattern before cutting the cloth.

 

You will see that in the back part, there is no allowance for extra cloth for a dart.  That is what the 'No dart' refers to.

 

So, your second method is the correct one.  Draw the points - A-A1-A2-A3-S- S1 out, then cut out the paper and then cut out the wedge A - A2 down to the yoke bottom edge (pinch) and seal with sticky tape.

 

G


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#4 gatto

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Posted 14 April 2018 - 06:11 PM

Thank you Schneiderfrei.

 

thank you very miuch. I will draft it and let you know.

 

Another thing I notice is  that normally with a chest 50 cm the size of collar should be 40 and not 41. But this doesn't metter.

 

Ciao,

Gatto


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#5 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 15 April 2018 - 01:34 PM

It would be great to see your effort.

 

I myself must do one too.

 

G


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