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No tailor has been able to figure out what the issue to my shirt is..can any of you?

shirt alteration fix mtm

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#19 teknique

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Posted 22 August 2017 - 01:27 PM

 

 

There's only one reliably consistent, simple solution to fitting problems that I know of: Switch to non-fitting garments:)

 

The next level of simplicity is to get somebody with some experience to do it for you. Not necessarily simple to find such a person, but disagreements about what's causing your problem don't mean that nobody has figured it out, nor that nobody you’ve asked is capable of solving it, nor that there's only one way to solve it. Have you let anybody else try to fit you in a shirt?

 

Or, if you're determined to do it yourself (NOT a simple process that I've ever noticed!), have you tried following any of the advice you've gotten here yet? Better pictures would help anyone trying to help you.

 

I definitely can't do it myself..anyone located in NYC to help a guy out?  =P



#20 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 22 August 2017 - 05:59 PM

What has worked for many people on this form is to pick an alteration that makes the most sense to you, apply it to a model/toile garment and re-post the images with the changes.

 

You can not get any good feedback if you make more than one change at a time, especially at first.

 

It can work. Lots of us love to discuss this way.


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#21 Terri

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Posted 22 August 2017 - 11:18 PM

You are asking people here to diagnose a problem in a garment none of us drafted. None of us personally measured you, so we haven't been able to compare the measurments (if they are correct) to the pattern. We haven,t even seen a full set of photos (front, profile and back ) with the shirt buttoned up, in a neutral stance.

you are are coming across as dismissive of suggestions. It seems you think you already know whats wrong and only will accept the answer that agrees with your preconceptions.

A shirt,because of its lack of available seaming or darts can only be pushed so far in getting a close fit.
Most shirt makers and the patterns they use present fit issues if the overall ease at the chest is reduced without extensive modifications in other areas.

Are you buying online and inputting your own modifications?
Try starting with a bit more chest circumference, and maybe a bit squarer shoulder than what you have already. Even then, without seeing you in person it is still a guess from afar.
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#22 dpcoffin

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 01:18 AM

BTW, are you actually interested in making your own shirts, from scratch, from a pattern you develop/alter? Perhaps I've been assuming too much…?


Edited by dpcoffin, 23 August 2017 - 03:05 AM.


#23 greger

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 03:28 AM

If you bought a pattern that has several sizes and you cut one out I would suggest cut out a size or two larger for front and the same amount smaller on the back. A few adjustments, such as drawing the back neck wider, back armhole larger. Some of this can be done with the help of wax paper from the kitchen. Adjusting for shoulder slope can actually be done with pins. Forget the sleeves and collar and stand for now. And don't finish the front edge. Just fold it under where you think it should be. If your guess is wrong you let some out or fold more under. At the shoulder seam just sew to the collar seam, because that part of the seam allowance should spread. After you figure out the basics you make a pattern from it, which most likely will be fine tuned another time or two. The sideseam may be in the wrong place,  too.  And you'll have to decide where that goes. 

 

How many tailors give out free fitting information? They rather your clothes fit poorly and you pay them to make nice fitting clothes for you. They are in the business to make a living. Not be Unemployed. 


Edited by greger, 23 August 2017 - 03:31 AM.


#24 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 09:18 AM

 

After careful consideration, I believe the issue is formed primarily by my pecks being large enough to push the chest fabric forward enough that it pulls the midsection forward, hence the diagonal downward drag lines.  I believe this will be solved by adding fabric to the chest/mid-section area to allow for ease from the pecks and not push it forward so much.

 

You have hit the nail on the head with your own reply.

 

Your chest is coursing a tightness at the centre front. This is probably due to the neck point on the front being  to straight.

This is coursing the tightness at the chest. even though you might have looseness  across the front, in the armhole area. The section of front chest cannot move past the neck position.

As you fasten the front the tightness is seen as a diagonal line running to the front shoulder end. The diagonal lines under the chest are a result of the same tightness, coupled with a tightness in the hips, which shows in your picture with the shirt outside your trousers.

 

Posaune said the same thing, only her translation came out different than mine.

 

In a nutshell. Your neck is thicker  and disproportionate to chest and hips. If you just add extra width straight down the centre front. it should take away the tightness.


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#25 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 10:13 AM

 

You have hit the nail on the head with your own reply.

 

Your chest is coursing a tightness at the centre front. This is probably due to the neck point on the front being  to straight.

This is coursing the tightness at the chest. even though you might have looseness  across the front, in the armhole area. The section of front chest cannot move past the neck position.

As you fasten the front the tightness is seen as a diagonal line running to the front shoulder end. The diagonal lines under the chest are a result of the same tightness, coupled with a tightness in the hips, which shows in your picture with the shirt outside your trousers.

 

Posaune said the same thing, only her translation came out different than mine.

 

In a nutshell. Your neck is thicker  and disproportionate to chest and hips. If you just add extra width straight down the centre front. it should take away the tightness.

 

Pardon my grammar on this post. I should have said Causing! Not Coursing. ( Although we are hunting for a solution!)


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#26 greger

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 03:19 PM

Figured it is to straight. But, didn't want to get into that subject. A larger size in the chest would help. Which means, for average, the back is to large. 

 

"The section of front chest cannot move past the neck position." 

That is a good way of describing it. 



#27 teknique

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Posted 23 August 2017 - 09:01 PM

Figured it is to straight. But, didn't want to get into that subject. A larger size in the chest would help. Which means, for average, the back is to large. 

 

"The section of front chest cannot move past the neck position." 

That is a good way of describing it. 

Do you mean redistribute some of the back width to the front panel?  As in, perhaps decrease the back panel by X, and add it to front panel instead?  In addition, I will increase neck by 0.25in.

 

Hips actually do lay flat and fit fine, the picture is a bit misleading as the shirt is draping over pants, which will never be the case - I don't wear these shirts untucked, so they'll be tucked in and fit rather fine when not trying to fit over a belt and a pair of pants.

 

Thanks



#28 greger

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Posted 24 August 2017 - 08:41 AM

A good pattern (store bought) fits average. Especially posture. A little posture change and the pattern needs adjustments. 



#29 teknique

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 08:28 AM

A good pattern (store bought) fits average. Especially posture. A little posture change and the pattern needs adjustments. 

 

That's obvious.  However, I'm having much difficulty in getting a bullet point summary of what we believe the issue to be to take to my tailor to try fixing the issue.  I love all the help and am very grateful, but it seems that I've tried many times now to just get some bullet points in laymen's terms for what adjustments I can (possibly) try to correct such issues.  I've read all about pinning, balance, front width, etc. but it's all too abstract and speaking in theoreticals for me to firmly grasp and be able to relay confidently.  I'm in no rush, and price is not an issue, I just want something to be able to quantify (even if it's incorrect) so I can fully understand what to tell and ask for, as nobody can figure this out!

 

For what it's worth, even Kabbazz himself seems to be unable to fix the issue - check his website!

 

FittingClient1_180_2.jpg

 

http://www.customshi...poke-philosophy

 

This guy has the same diagonal lines!  Yet I can't seem to notice it on anyone out in public except for myself and a handful of random people in the street, while others have immaculately tailored clothing...I'm at a loss here, guys.

 

Please please please - especially @gregor and @MANSIE WAUCH, since they seem to have a solid grasp on what the underlying issue is...please help me out and just break this down via bullet points on what I can relay to my tailor and start getting somewhere with fixing the issue.  I'm literally just looking for approximate (or even placeholder amounts, specifically) to be able to fully understand what's causing the issue.

 

Right now, all I've gathered is "Add extra width to the 'centre front'" and I'm not even fully sure what the 'centre front' is.  Is this just a 'front panel' fabric addition?  So, in a sense, a front panel addition = a back panel reduction?  Is the issue as simple as:

 

- Add 0.50" of fabric to the front panel of the shirt

 

And this is will *possibly* correct my issues?  Nothing to add about shoulder slope, or hips?

 

Thanks



#30 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 09:55 AM

So,back in 2015, I wanted to find out about shirt fitting.  I drafted a shirt which obviously did not fit and requested help in fitting it.  I wanted to know utter basics, here's what happened:

 

http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=3863

 

Out of all that (???!!), I copied and pasted every part of the discussion that made sense to me and made a bunch of dot points.  Then I went back and wrote my own guide that met my requirements of understanding.

 

It was difficult and sometimes bewildering but now I am much better.  There are some incredible advisers on this site.

 

G


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#31 greger

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Posted 26 August 2017 - 03:03 AM

Perhaps Peterle is right about swayed hips forward. Some major lines on the pattern need to be changed, then.  

 

Your shirt is finished. Did you go to mtm? There wouldn't be any inlays to make changes to that shirt. People who do not stand their normal stance never get clothes that fit. 

 

To get perfect fit isn't always 1 2 3 and done. Sometimes it is 1 then 3 then 4 then 1 then 2 and however random goes. 






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