Pattern adjustments for balance
Posted 21 September 2017 - 06:58 PM
As is it looks now like ashirt. The waist intend is okay, the darting and the sleeve form looks good.
See the roll of fabric at the sides.
You see at side view that the front is climbing up. When released (not buttoned) you see one part at Cf goes over the other.
And the folds are nearly gone.\/ like this. So length here needed and some width at neck. You have to rotate some in.
The collar looks to high at neck in this photo. So maybe it pulls up (when buttoned up) the whole shirt which adds to the folds.
These folds under the arm can be a lack of length and some width over the bust.
I would release the front schoulder about 1.5 cm. Then enlarge the front length about 1 cm.
You can do that quick qand dirty on your moulage.
A word to your sleeve they are too long for my taste. You have shorten them about 1/2 upt to 3/4 of cuff width(? word)?
The cuff itself is very wide(? word). It maybe that you must cut a formed cuff if you want this width.
Posted 21 September 2017 - 08:36 PM
I also think the collar is too tight, i didnt have the creases on the shoulder before.
i made the neckhole smaller. and thats what produced the problem.
The thing is, even with the smaller neck hole, the collar is still a little loose around the neck
it seems to be to loose for the neck and too tight for the shoulders ?!
is there a way to fix this ?
I also think the sleeves are a little long, and theyd probably look better shorter, but doesnt the extra length give a little more freedom of movement.
I like the range of movement i have now, wouldnt want to have any less if possible.
for the cuffs, i took the cuff from the rundschau-book. I think its 7.5cm high. whats the regular height for cuffs ?
thanks again for all the help. I find it to be really complicated (much harder than i initially thought). kudos to you all for being able to do that quickly on a whole range of customers.
Edited by thrawn235, 21 September 2017 - 08:39 PM.
Posted 22 September 2017 - 04:48 AM
i made the neckhole smaller. and thats what produced the problem.----
It can also be a handling fault. Because your shoulder line is much on the bias.
Your neck line is not easy to see. (Measuring woman with a problem there I take a small (golden) chain with a weight around the
neck. Weight into the back, you get where and how in front the neckhole is shaped and pushing the weight in front - where in back. Maybe this helps.)
I take about 6 cm for the cuff. But I do not sew for smart young men. It depends on your arm form. Measure 7.5 up from wrist and you add the over- und underlap
and maybe +1 cm (for the watch) then you have your circ.
- Schneiderfrei likes this
Posted 22 September 2017 - 09:03 AM
Now I understand how you use the chain posaune! That is great
Shell made out of gold
Found on a beach picked up and you held so close
Posted 23 September 2017 - 02:49 AM
crooken or straighten a shirt?
This can be done on a toil.
Later the front line needs to be redrawn.
From the finished toil a paper pattern is made.
Whatever is the quickest way to get finished pattern.
Sometimes angling the armhole is all that is needed to find the best hang of the cloth or getting rid of excess and then adjust the sideseams.
Posted 03 October 2017 - 02:43 AM
I did a few more tests, and i think even without the collar the front is being pulled up now. and there is a balance problem again (i wonder why...)
so i think i'll try the rotating technique that posaune suggested. One question though. does that change the shoulder slope ? (i think the slope is correct now, that's why i'm asking)
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