Jump to content


Photo

Trouser Making - Sequence?


  • Please log in to reply
21 replies to this topic

#19 Jacob

Jacob

    Umsie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 8 posts

Posted 28 September 2017 - 09:58 PM

Sorry to interrupt with what is probably a dumb question, but

 

When you say that you "have straight grain for the trouser legs and cross-grain for the linings," are you saying that:

a) the fashion fabric for the trouser legs is oriented such that the warp threads run lengthwise up and down the trouser legs ... and

b) that the linings are oriented 90° to that, with the weft threads running lengthwise up and down the trouser legs, and the selvage running horizontally around the knee area?

 

I'm a complete novice, but trying to follow along with the adult conversation. Thank you.



#20 Terri

Terri

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,018 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Ontario Canada

Posted 28 September 2017 - 10:49 PM

Yes, thats how I read it.
I normally would keep the lengthwise grain of the fabric and lengthwise grain of the lining matched.

Obviously some people turn the grain of the lining so the lengthwise /selvedge is horizontal.

DZ - i did not mean crossgrain to be the bias.

I have seen people try putting a lining or flat mounting on the bias and it is not good!

#21 tombennett

tombennett

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 323 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bristol, UK
  • Interests:Tailoring (especially from the 1960s), Photography, DJing, House-Music, Northern Soul and, Life.

Posted 29 September 2017 - 04:53 AM

No I wouldn't bias the linings, yes so the selvedge runs horizontally around the knee, well just below to stop it riding up onto the knee which is a little uncomfortable and defeats the object, and the face cloth struck on the usual grain line.


Edited by tombennett, 29 September 2017 - 04:54 AM.

  • Schneiderfrei likes this

#22 Jacob

Jacob

    Umsie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 8 posts

Posted 29 September 2017 - 08:50 AM

Thank you, Terri and TomBennett.


  • tombennett likes this




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users