Sorry to interrupt with what is probably a dumb question, but
When you say that you "have straight grain for the trouser legs and cross-grain for the linings," are you saying that:
a) the fashion fabric for the trouser legs is oriented such that the warp threads run lengthwise up and down the trouser legs ... and
b) that the linings are oriented 90° to that, with the weft threads running lengthwise up and down the trouser legs, and the selvage running horizontally around the knee area?
I'm a complete novice, but trying to follow along with the adult conversation. Thank you.